The Biodynamic Buzz

How balance, diversity, and seasonality hold the keys to producing some unique and exciting wines

by Mia Littlejohn

If biodynamic wine has shown up on your foodie radar lately, then you’ve probably heard tails of some of the wackier winemaking practices involved in this emerging category. After all, reverently stuffing the entrails of a just-slaughtered cow with chamomile and flowers is simply what biodynamic farmers call Preparation 503. And while that sure sounds like a concoction Miracle Max, The Princess Bride’s lovable potion peddler, would whip up to humiliate Prince Humperdink, biodynamics is producing some serious juice for you wine folks to sip.

Understanding the standards and practices of biodynamic farming involves suspending some of your modern sensibilities and embracing the inherent connections among all living things. Biodynamics emphasizes balance, diversity, and seasonality. In many ways, it is a common-sense-driven approach tuned to nature’s rhythms and backed up by solid results.

In ancient cultures, the vine symbolized the cycle of life and death, which for both the Greeks and the Romans also included the vital component of rebirth as pictured in the vineyard’s springtime renewal. This belief is one of the more ancient ideas upon which biodynamic winemakers rely; however, the process also depends on our modern understanding of the science of winemaking—specifically the nutrients needed for both the vine and the soil to thrive and the complex nature of fermentation.

These old and new ideas came together in the work of Austrian scientist Rudolph Steiner. Working in the early part of the twentieth century, Steiner developed Anthroposophy, a philosophical approach to the scientific processes that govern life, which he derived from his systematic study of living plants, animals, and organisms (as opposed to dead specimens). Steiner’s work became the framework for biodynamic agriculture, as well as the Waldorf approach to education among other things.

Many of the natural compost preparations used by biodynamic farmers today (like Preparation 503) were taken straight from Steiner’s 1924 lecture series, Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture. Other biodynamic techniques—and more of the science—were fleshed out through the work of the first practitioners.

Biodynamic farming is built on a deep respect for the land and a commitment to producing naturally superior products while fostering every living element on the farm. The major tenets of biodynamic agriculture are on-farm composting and recycling, following a schedule guided by the lunar calendar, and promotion of biodiversity.

The goal of on-farm recycling is to support the individual character of the farm and to integrate the earth’s diverse elements together. Specially prepared medicinal plants, minerals, and composted animal manures work together to anchor each farm in its own time and place.

Biodynamic farmers sow, prune, and harvest according to the lunar cycle as another practical application of embracing the interconnection of all life in the universe. Letting the moon set your schedule is unusual for present-day, conventional farmers adept at manipulating the seasons to maximize production. And yet, people have been farming according to the moon’s cycles about as long as they’ve been making wine.

Looking to the night sky for direction may sound strange. But when you consider how powerfully the moon pulls the ocean tides, its effects on the fertility of coral reefs (not to mention ladies), and how crazy-making the full moon is for Teen Wolf, the fact that the lunar cycle has a hold on vines and other plants doesn’t seem all that far-fetched.

At Frey Vineyards, this cosmic connection is savored each day when the Vineyard Manager walks through the vines. “It’s a special time to reflect on the land and tune into the subtle energy of the larger ecosystem, which, stretched out far enough, includes the sun and the other planets,” says Katrina Frey, one of the siblings behind the family-owned vineyard, the first to be certified biodynamic in the United States.

Biodynamic farming also encourages and supports biodiversity. Farmers set aside at least 10-percent of their land for other wildlife, and many do much more. “We own 900 acres of land and farm 110 acres of it. The rest is largely untouched, mountainous woodland of Douglas fir, redwood, oak, and Madrone that are home to fox, bear, woodpecker, and owl,” says Frey.

Biodynamic farmers often view their work as part of a larger mission—to preserve the earth and to create inspiring wines. At Ehlers Estate in Napa Valley's St. Helena appellation, the practice of biodynamic farming complements the winery's philanthropic mission. "It gives the winery a unique sense of purpose that combines the pursuit of excellence with social responsibility," explains Vineyard Manager and Winemaker Rudy Zuidema.

Biodynamic grape growing strives to nurture the vineyard’s greatest potential through each year’s unique growing cycle. Many biodynamic enthusiasts rave about how the wine captures the distinct flavor of the land. “Biodynamics allows us to achieve the purest possible expression of our Purisima Mountain Vineyard terroir,” says Steve Beckmen from Beckmen Vineyards, which went biodynamic in 2006. Hyperbole aside, biodynamic winemaking doesn’t allow for any tricks, often used in cheap wine, which mask the flavor of the fruit. With the fruit front and center, at its full potential, the wine is indeed a pure reflection of the land’s singular season.

Biodynamic farming certainly doesn’t offer any excuses for its undeniably unorthodox practices. Still, perhaps it doesn’t need to. The system is based on real science, a respect for life, and a vision for fostering harmony and crafting quality products. For farmers, biodynamics is a rewarding approach that yields sustainable crops that reflect the true essence of their land. For many consumers the elements of oddity are easy to overlook since its good for the environment. Luckily, it turns out that oak bark, chamomile, and entrails often prove to be the right formula for creating some truly original and exciting wines, and, rumor has it, there’s even less of a hangover.

Biodynamic Labeling

Biodynamic winemaking might sound like it’s only done by a few free-thinking farm renegades, but it’s actually embraced by many of the world’s most respected winemakers and under very strict guidelines. While organic wine labeling is controversially supervised by the USDA, biodynamic farms are certified by Demeter-International, an independent organization with chapters in 45 countries. Certified vineyards are audited annually to ensure that products and practices meet scrupulous rules. Neither organic nor biodynamic farming allow for the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides.  However, many believe that biodynamic winemakers are going beyond organic by producing a natural product while preserving the vineyard’s own vitality.

SHELF STABLE

Lots of people talk about the difference in shelf life between biodynamic wines and their conventionally produced counterparts. Without the addition of added preservatives or sulfites, there is often the insinuation that naturally produced wine does not age well. In reality, the way a wine ages has much more to do with its quality of production and what it was designed to do. Many wines are crafted to be ready to drink, but others are meant to age for several years. Quality, naturally produced wines designed to age will do so beautifully if they are properly stored thanks to naturally occurring preservatives.