Philadelphia, once the first capital of the United States, is now one of its top tourist destinations, and the food here is a major reason why.
Shrewd foodies will already know that Philly isn’t just a place for whiz-covered cheese steaks, old-school red sauce joints, and soft pretzels salted to hell. The fine dining scene here has exploded in recent years, as demonstrated by the city’s three James Beard Award wins in 2023. It’s also especially strong in terms of Latin American, Southeast Asian, and Mediterranean cuisines.
At the same time, you’ll find Philadelphia tends to cost less money to dine out than other East Coast counterparts such as D.C. and Boston, and you’ll find plenty of affordable, informal eateries that too warrant awards. Yes, we’re looking at you, South Philly Barbacoa.
Overall, Philly’s rich history combined with its modern spirit and diverse population means that it’s the perfect place to explore the old and the new. With that in mind, here’s where to eat and visit, with options exploring both the past and the future of the city.
Things To Know
First, many restaurants in the area do not carry a liquor license, since acquiring one can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars. So if you’re used to wining with your dining, plan to BYOB at least once.
Expect reservations for the hottest restaurants to be difficult to nail. That means book early or get on the waitlist in case tables free up. Also, some older establishments, especially bars, still operate cash-only. If you’re the type to embark on a spontaneous pub crawl, it’s worth taking out some bills beforehand.
Breakfast In Philadelphia
The Old
You’ll find Reading Terminal Market (1136 Arch St.) at the top of every Philly travel guide, and for good reason. One of the major Center City attractions, the indoor farmers’ market with 75-plus businesses has something for everyone, rain or shine.
The only problem? It doesn’t have space for everyone. So we recommend checking this off your to-do list in the morning, when the walkways are less congested and the seating is more plentiful. It’s also the perfect chance to sample some classic Philadelphia-area foods. Soft pretzels can make a surprisingly solid meal in baked good form.
However, we advise hitting up Dutch Eating Place inside the market for breakfast sandwiches filled with scrapple, or sample an iconic pork roll. We’ll leave it up to you to investigate what these delicious breakfast meats actually are.
The New
Breakfast sandos also happen to be a specialty of Fishtown’s Middle Child Clubhouse (1232 N. Front St.),, the three-year-old sister restaurant to chef Matt Cahn’s Midtown Village sandwich shop, simply dubbed Middle Child. We like the clubhouse because it has more seating, a fully stocked bar, and an expanded breakfast menu served until 2 p.m.
On the downside, just like the original location, you’ll probably still have to wait in line. But what you’ll get is the sort of stuff that seems like Instagram fluff but actually tastes really good. The sandwiches are huge; the pancakes are like an ingenious blend between a classic flapjack, Japanese souffle pancakes, and crêpes Suzette; and you can top the latke-inspired hash browns with trout roe for the best way to eat a.m. caviar.
Lunch in Philadelphia
The Old
Cheesesteak time. The truth is that Philly’s most famous food seldom warrants the title of the city’s most delicious food, but any fan of meat, cheese, and bread will like a cheesesteak well enough.
We suggest taking one of two routes, depending on whether you prioritize history or quality. A decades-old rivalry brews between two next-door neighbors, Pat’s King of Steaks (1237 E. Passyunk Ave.) and Geno’s Steaks (1219 S. 9th St.), in the Italian Market neighborhood. You can pick your allegiance by visiting both shops, which really only differ slightly in how the meat gets chopped. There’s also a 30 year gap as Geno’s has been slinging food since 1966, and Pat’s since 1930.
You can also look further up Ninth Street at Angelo’s Pizzeria (736 S. 9th St.) for a cheesesteak of greater local renown. Because they’re so simple, a quality cheesesteak usually comes down to personal preference, so don’t be permanently put off if you don’t love the first one you try. And yes, this is your pass to try as many as you can.
The New
You can go low or high for lunch in Philadelphia. Brace for the line at West Philly’s Black Dragon Takeout ( 5260 Rodman St.), which draws on a unique blend of Black American soul food and Chinese takeout flavors. Think pimento-tinged crab rangoon, sweet potato sour chicken, and gumbo lo mein.
Or, head to Mawn (764 S. 9th St.), currently one of the city’s most coveted dinner reservations, for a walk-in midday meal of Cambodian cuisine. Splurge on seafood dishes such as the head-on soft-shell shrimp and Thai crab fried rice. Add on a cardamom-infused iced coffee, and call it lunch.
Dinner in Philadelphia
The Old
It’s impossible to leave Philly without eating Italian food, it’s simply the thread that makes up the area’s culinary fabric. And in many ways, it starts with Ralph’s Italian Restaurant (760 S. 9th St.) since it’s the oldest Italian restaurant in the U.S.
Opened in 1900, this multi-story red sauce joint is great for stuffing yourself with time-honored Italian American traditions including pasta, chicken parm, cannoli, and the like. Make sure to start off with Ralph’s “everything” salad, and don’t miss the meatballs, which are, in plain terms, really f’ing good.
The New
For a few years, the area between Olde Kensington and the Fishtown neighborhoods has been a hot spot for good eats. Head to Kalaya (4 W. Palmer St.) for modern Thai, Suraya for Levantine feasts, and Hiroki for special-occasion omakase.
However, walk about ten minutes to the east and you’ll stumble upon Bastia (1401 E. Susquehanna Ave.), one of the city’s best openings of 2024. Focusing on Corsican and Sardinian cuisines, it’s the logical next step for an Italian-dominated food scene. Here the menu explores regionality within the Mediterranean country, finding refinement through simple yet creative flavor combinations. The shaved artichoke-celery salad, storzapretti ricotta dumplings, and whole orata (aka seabream) are highlights of the savory menu, but the burnt cardamom leaf panna cotta is easily one of the best things this kitchen is putting out.
Drinks in Philadelphia
The Old
Dive bars and casual pubs dotting the city make it easy to cheap out on drinks. If you visit a few, you’ll likely encounter the (in)famous Citywide, a pairing of Pabst Blue Ribbon and Jim Beam. The boilermaker combo originated at Bob & Barbara’s Lounge (1509 South St.) near Rittenhouse Square, where it still only costs you a Lincoln. That is especially convenient since this barroom, which is over 55 years old, only takes cash. So whether you’re aiming to order one, two, or four Citywides (remember that it’s two drinks at once), paying is as breezy as downing the drink itself.
The New
Izakayas are essentially Japan’s answer to the pub, and they’ve been especially trendy in the U.S. in recent years. Take Yanaga Kappo Izakaya (637 N. Third St.). It debuted in the Northern Liberties neighborhood last April and serves up a snacky Japanese food menu and list complete with plenty of sake, beer, wine, and cocktails.
One of the best drinks is the UFO Tofu mocktail, a mixture of coconut milk, Calpico (a Japanese soft drink), matcha, and honeydew which you can spike with a shot of vodka or tequila. Yanaga also boasts an omakase program, but we’d rather enjoy happy-hour maki and cups of sake while watching Studio Ghibli flicks and anime reruns on the TVs populating the bar.
Philadelphia Attractions
The Old
Unless you’re a real history junkie, the Liberty Bell Center and similar monuments are not as “must-see” as many travel guides make out. Instead, book $1 timed tickets for an Independence Hall tour ahead of your visit, then head to the monument around half an hour early. The Liberty Bell is just across the street, so if the line looks short, it’s worth checking out, but if it’s not, and it often isn’t, just take a peek at the bell through the building’s large glass windows.
After your Independence Hall tour, stop by the President’s House site, then do a walking tour by some of the other Old City landmarks, such as the Betsy Ross House and Elfreth’s Alley Museum.
The New
The art museum district down Benjamin Franklin Parkway is ridiculously stacked, with the Rodin Museum, Barnes Collection, and Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA) all within 15 minutes of each other. A new entrant will be joining the ranks this year, Calder Gardens, which celebrates the life of Pennsylvania-born sculptor Alexander “Sandy” Calder. It’s slated to open in September, 2025.
You might’ve already seen work from the Calder family around Philly as Sandy’s Ghost sculpture hangs in the main hall of the PMA. His dad built the Swann Memorial Fountain in Logan Square, and his grandfather created the William Penn sculpture atop City Hall. This cultural destination, however, will be the first site dedicated to the kinetic art pioneer and will feature substantial indoor and outdoor presentations.
Where To Stay
The Franklin On Rittenhouse (1715 Rittenhouse Square) offers a blend of classic Philadelphia and modern sensibilities. The boutique hotel dates back to 1829 and is located off the historic Rittenhouse Square, which was conceived in 1682 by William Penn. It’s the fourth oldest park in the country, and of the spaces planned by Penn, it’s the only one to continuously retain its original intent as a public place of relaxation.
While the facade of the 20-room stay offers a glimpse into the city’s history, inside guests will find modern amenities. Each room has been individually designed with pops of old world style and French influences. One can truly book a room based on their own preferences, as well as size, which includes king, queen, and suite.
Dip into the Franklin Mortgage & Investment Company, for a nightcap. It’s one of the city’s coolest speakeasy-style bars, and can be found on property.
