Now is the time for latkes, that delightfully greasy, slightly salty Jewish potato pancake most commonly consumed during Hanukkah.
“My best memories from Hanukkah are sitting around the kitchen with everyone gathered and eating latkes together,” recalled Josh Wolkon, owner of Steuben’s. “We’d eat so many that we couldn’t fit anything else in.”
For Gentiles who may not know the ins and outs of Hanukkah, it’s the Jewish holiday celebrating freedom, both from oppression and religious expression. The story behind the holiday speaks to the “miracle of the oil,” which happened after the Maccabean Revolt in 1 BCE, when Jewish rebels reclaimed the Temple in Jerusalem from Seleucid invaders. Upon re-entering the Temple, the rebels only found enough oil to light the menorah for one day, but miraculously it burned for eight. Hence, the eight days of Hanukkah.
Where Latkes Come In
As for latkes,the simple but addictive dish has been a symbol of this miracle for eons. All because each potato pancake gets fried in oil.
“It’s customary to eat foods cooked in oil during Hanukkah to celebrate the miracle of the oil,” explained Rabbi Joe Black of Temple Emanuel, which hosts its annual Hanukkah Hoopla event on December 27. “I remember my grandma, who was from Russia, making latkes by grinding up potatoes in a big wooden chopping bowl, and the delicious smells that would fill up the house.”
For the Rabbi, his secret ingredient is green chilies. But for Miles Odell, owner of the recently opened Odell’s Bagel in Highland, it’s all about the shmaltz, that rendered chicken fat often referred to as “liquid gold” in Jewish cooking.
“Just like bagels, everyone has an opinion about latkes,” expressed Odell. “How I like them is thin and crispy, and I want some crunch in every bite with a little creaminess in the middle from the natural potato starch.”
Over at Steuben’s, they do things a bit differently.
“I grew up with what I’d call a ‘Steuben’s Style’ latke, where the potatoes are ground in a food processor until they’re almost pulverized, then mixed with onions,” Wolkon recounted. “This makes a latke that’s crispy on the outside and softer on the inside, without that shredded mouth feel.”
While the latke making process may vary from chef to chef, the heart of the tradition remains the same.
“Hanukkah is about standing up for what you believe in, fighting oppression, and finding light in the midst of darkness,” continued Rabbi Black. “With the longest nights of the year upon us and the challenges happening around the world today, we need moments to celebrate light.”
In honor of the eight nights of Hanukkah, which is taking place from December 25 to January 2, here are eight spots around the Mile High City where you can find latkes, plus some tips from the potato pancake pros on how to make the perfect latke.
Odell’s Bagel
Odell’s Bagel, the new kid on the bagel block, will sell take-home latke kits with a luxurious twist. From December 19 to January 2, the bagel joint will offer eight packs of latkes that come with fresh cut chives, crème fraîche, and house-made apple sauce, with the option to add on caviar (starting at $75) or house-cured salmon roe ($65). Place your order online. 3200 Irving St., Denver, odellsbagel.com
“To make sure your latkes are crispy, squeeze out as much water as possible from your potatoes, and then reintroduce the starch that settles at the bottom of the potato water back into your mixture.”
Miles Odell, owner of Odell’s Bagel
Latke Love
Latke Love out of Littleton serves up latkes in a variety of flavors all year long. Starting at $13 for four crispy potato pancakes,the menu includes “The Classic” with housemade applesauce and cinnamon whipped cream, or sour cream; “The Manhattan” topped with smoked salmon, dill cream, capers, and shaved red onions; the “Rabbi, I’m Confused” with pulled pork drenched in carolina BBQ sauce; among others. They also have blintzes (Jewish crepes) and knishes. To order, call 303-995-9708. 699 W. Littleton Blvd., Littleton, latkelove.com
“The perfect latke is made with potatoes, onions, and love.”
Steve Shander, owner of Latke Love
Safta
Taking after the viral food board trend, Safta is offering a Latke Board featuring four latkes with labneh, apple butter, pickled shallots, beet tahini, marinated parsley, whipped butter, and ikra, which is smoked trout roe mixed with baby herbs. The package is priced at $45 for dine-in, or $50 for takeout, with a portion donated to the Anti-Defamation League.
It will be available throughout Hanukkah (note, Safta is closed on December 25 and January 1). The restaurant will also offer festive Hanukkah cocktails like the Jerry Seinfeld (with pisco, lime, golden falernum, and blue curacao) and the Barbra Streisand (with manischewitz, cappelleti vino aperitivo, orange, lime, and sparkling wine). To order the Latke Board to-go, call 720-408-2444. 3330 Brighton Blvd., Denver, eatwithsafta.com
“Whisk your egg whites and then fold them into your latke mixture to make them fluffy. Then, slowly fry them at a lower temperature, 225 to 275 degrees Fahrenheit, so they don’t overcook.”
Pedro Diaz, executive chef at Safta
Red Square Euro Bistro
Latkes are a permanent fixture on Red Square Euro Bistro’s menu, where each plate comes “Russian style” with sour cream and dill. One order comes with four potato pancakes for only $8. Dine in any time, or get some to go by ordering on DoorDash or calling (303) 595-8600. 1512 Larimer St., Denver, redsquarebistro.com
Rosenberg’s
Rosenberg’s, which recently won the Jewish Community Center’s annual latke competition, will be offering its award-winning potato pancakes (half-dozen for $18) with apple butter and crème fraîche, as well as sufganiyot ($3 each), which are doughnuts filled with raspberry jam and sprinkled with powdered sugar. The Hanukkah menu will be available from December 25 to 29. Place your order online. Multiple locations, rosenbergsbagels.com
“Parbake your potatoes before you shred them. This softens the texture slightly and prevents oxidation, which is crucial. You don’t want the potatoes to turn brown and mushy after shredding.”
Joshua Pollack, owner of Rosenberg’s
Steuben’s
For the first time ever, Steuben’s will be selling latkes during Hanukkah this year. Look for traditional latkes and “Steuben’s Style” potato pancakes with house-made applesauce and sour cream. Latkes start at three for $9, six for $18, or 12 for $32. They will also be available frozen to take home. Additionally, Steuben’s will be offering quarts and bowls of chicken noodle soup for the holiday. Place your order online. 523 E. 17th Ave., Denver, steubens.com
“I found the most successful way to reheat latkes is with the air fryer. That way, you don’t have to add any extra grease.”
Josh Wolkon, owner of Steuben’s
Zaidy’s Deli & Bakery
“There are really two schools of latkes,” said Joel Appel, co-owner of Zaidy’s Deli & Bakery, referring to the hashbrown-esque latkes found at most delis versus the style they make at Zaidy’s, which is closer to an actual pancake. “Our batter includes things like onions, salt, potatoes, a little potato flour, and some love. Then we scoop it onto a griddle, much like a pancake. It’s a very traditional way of making them.”
Zaidy’s offers an entire menu of Hanukkah favorites including a half-dozen ($17) or full dozen ($32) of their pancake-style latkes with strawberry applesauce ($5.50) or sour cream ($6). Also order sufganiyot (a dozen for $15), a variety of desserts, homemade rugelach, brisket, potato and noodle kugel, and more. Place your order online. 600 S. Holly St., Denver, zaidysdeli.com
“Being a Colorado guy, I love my latkes with green chili, cheese, and some sour cream.”
Joel Appel, co-owner of Zaidy’s
NY Deli News
This iconic Denver deli serves up latkes year round out of its storefront in Hampden. The restaurant, which first opened in 1989, keeps it straightforward, with a single latke for $4.50 or an order of three for $13.50. Naturally, they come with a side of sour cream and apple sauce. Order online or call (303) 759-4741. 7105 E. Hampden Ave., Denver, nydelinews.com
