A lot has changed for chef Jennifer Jasinski this year, and the co-founder of Rioja finally feels like she’s getting back to her basics.
In August Jasinski and her Crafted Concepts partner Beth Gruitch announced a shift in power for their concepts Bistro Vendôme and Ultreia. Instead of helming the eateries, they passed the reins to their long- time chefs Tim Kuklinski and Adam Branz respectively. While the restaurants are still owned by Crafted Concepts, Jasinski and Gruitch have taken a step back, leaving the two chefs in charge.
“For me it’s been coming for a bit and the pandemic was really hard,” said Jasinski while munching on papadum at one of her favorite restaurants, The Spice Room, in Highland. “It exhausted me, it was like three years of shifting and driving and trying to stay relevant and trying to figure out how not to go out of business.”
Jasinski managed to keep all her places going, and ultimately survived the restaurant shut down and all the changes. Yet, it took a toll, so when the lease at Stoic & Genuine was up this past fall, she decided to let it go. At the same time her and Gruitch also passed on the other two spots. Now, said Jasinski, they can concentrate on the first baby, Rioja, which has been serving seasonal Mediterranean fare on Larimer Square for 20 years.
The James Beard award-winning chef can also pay more attention to her personal life, from spending time with her husband Max Mackissock, chief culinary officer for the Culinary Creative Group (A5 Steakhouse, Ash’kara, Bar Dough, and more), to visiting her 82-year-old mother in California.
“My mom is in good health now, but I can’t wait till she’s not in good health to spend time with her,” said Jasinski. “I don’t want to look back and regret.”
Part of that means she’s ready to live her own life to the fullest, and isn’t waiting to do what she loves with those she loves. Now, said the chef, is the time to live.
By scaling back, the chef also has more opportunities to enjoy Denver and the food scene outside her restaurants (and Mackissock’s). For example, The Spice Room, where we met to discuss life, work, and Jasinski’s favorite places to eat. Read on to discover how the Wolfgang Puck protégé and talented chef dines on her days off, it may surprise you.
Dân Dã
Vietnamese comfort food gets a modern kick at An Nguyen’s cozy restaurant. Located next door to her sister Thoa Nguyen’s popular Banh & Butter Bakery Cafe, Dân Dã compliments her sister’s pastry program with a sit-down restaurant featuring traditional dishes such as Chả Giò Tôm Cu ($10.95), build-your-own spring rolls ($21.95 to $65.95), and specialty noodle bowls including Bún Chả Hà Nội Dân Dã ($29.95).
When visiting, Jasinski often orders from the clay pot menu and loves including one of the epic salads, complete with ingredients from pork belly to pineapple to pickled lotus root. 9945 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, dandavn.com
Sắp Sửa
As you may have noticed, Jasinski’s favorite places to go tend to serve food she doesn’t make. For example, Asian cuisines, which is why she also recommended Sắp Sửa. Run by chefs Anna and Ni Nguyen, the high-end, innovative Vietnamese restaurant in City Park opened last year.
“They are more fancy Vietnamese, but I love that and they just have really good food,” said the chef. “And sometimes, you know, you want a glass of wine and a nicer wine list.” 2550 E. Colfax Ave., Denver, sapsua.com
Patzcuaro’s Mexican Restaurant
Located in Jasinski’s neighborhood, the small, family-run restaurant has been in business since 1978. With well-prepared dishes such as menundo, street tacos, and Mexican shrimp cocktail, it’s her place to hit up for a solid and satisfying meal.
“It’s one of our neighborhood spots,” she said. “Is it the best Mexican, no, but I like it.”
The chef recommends the carnitas tacos ($11.95), the rice and beans, and Enchiladas Patzcuaro ($12.95) which come smothered in green sauce. 2616 W. 32nd Ave., Denver, patzcuaros.com
Redeemer Pizza
Turns out the chef has a thing for pepperoni cups, you know, the little slices of cured meat that curl up when heated on high. Pizzas at Redeemer start at $18 for 16-inches, and go up from there depending on what you put on top. For Jasinski and her husband, they get one to go. In fact, added the chef, she hasn’t actually dined inside the RiNo eatery, but loves how well the pizza travels. 2705 Larimer St., Denver, redeemerpizza.com
Bryan’s Dumpling House
This southern staple has been a dining destination for Jasinski and her husband since it opened in 2023. Don’t miss the Cucumber Salad ($7), she said. As for dumplings, the Greenwood Village restaurant serves a variety of flavors from traditional pan-fried chicken to crab with Kurobuta pork, and mushroom soup dumplings.
“We always try to go with, like, Max’s family and sit in,” said Jasinski. “Max always wants to order, so we maybe just try every dumpling.” 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Greenwood Village, bryansdumpling.com
La Calle Taqueria Y Carnitas
The menu at this quaint taco shop may feel overwhelming given it’s huge with loads of pictures. But worry not, everything Jasinski ate there has been a winner. One favorite dish includes the traditional goat stew, Birria de Chivo ($16.50). Tacos too are a hit, and the restaurant serves each for $3.19, with meats such as lamb barbacoa, cochanita pibil, lengua, and chorizo. 1565 W. Alameda Ave., Denver, lacalletaqueriaycarnitas.cfd
The Spice Room
Now onto our meeting place. It was actually Jasinski’s first time eating inside the small Indian restaurant, but she’s well acquainted with take out from there. We feasted on her favorite dishes including Korma with lamb ($23), Palak with mushrooms ($17), and cheese naan ($4).
We also sampled the mild Chicken Momos ($19), a Nepalese-style dumpling, and the Honey Chicken Curry ($23), a sweet dish more akin to sesame chicken than Indian curries. Chef Ashok Raj Joshi runs The Spice Room kitchens, overseeing the three spots. Multiple locations, denverspiceroom.com
