From older establishments to the new kids on the block, August offered great tastes from local restaurants. As always we tried a ton of food and eateries, and these 10 best bites really stood out. Heat dominated the palate this month, with hot green chile pizza, spicy tomatoes, and a chicken dish dubbed, “the devil.”
Where did you enjoy eating out last month? Read on to find out our best bites of August.
Peruvian Ceviche from The Regular
Peruvian foods have long held my heart after numerous trips to the country. So, it’s not surprising chef Brian Souza’s elevated classic would hit the right notes and become a best bites pick. The chef hails from Peru after all. The $24 dish comes with kanpachi, leche de tigre, sweet potato, Peruvian corn, and a whole lot of heart. Each piece was carefully placed on the plate, with micro greens and dollops of colorful sauces throughout. Eating the ceviche is like taking a trip, in the comfort of an elegant living room in Denver. 1432 Market St., Denver, theregulardenver.com
Pollo Alla Diavola from Coperta
When chef Paul C. Reilly’s Coperta opened in 2016, I have never forgotten the joy of this particular dish. In fact, every time I visit (save for brunch) the roasted half chicken with chili and piccante oil has to be ordered. So, when visiting the charming Italian spot for the first time in a while, I needed to make sure the Pollo Alla Diavola ($37) still held my heartstrings. It does, and remains a solid plate of poultry with a pleasing, but not overwhelming, heat to it. 400 E. 20th Ave., Denver, copertadenver.com
Seared Tuna from Ukiyo
After a successful launch of his 12-seat omakase experience Ukiyo, chef Paul Sananikone has released his second iteration. This time it’s a kaiseki menu. Similar to omakase, kaiseki style presents a wide variety of high-end cooking techniques, presentation methods and ingredients reflecting what’s in season. In this case the menu also features a split between traditional Japanese techniques and Laos and Mediterranean flavors.
That’s where the seared tuna bite came in. Topped with a mild blue cheese, thin onion, and fermented apple, this one part of the 20-course meal stood out for the unusual but successful melding of ingredients. The only caveat, to try the dish you have to sign up for the whole meal, which runs $175 per person and worth every bit. 1317 14TH St., Denver, ukiyoomakase.com
Brussels Sprouts from The Hampton Social
Yes, we know Brussels sprouts have been a tired dish for a while, but sometimes they still hit. In the case of the Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($18) at this new restaurant, the first Colorado location of the mini chain, they really hit, enough to be a contender for our best bites of the month. For starters, the whole mess is deep fried and tossed in chili-honey. Next, the steaming, crispy vegetables get cradled in a pool of whipped goat cheese and sprinkled with almonds. It’s a hot, sweet, salty, crunchy, and carries a wicked umami punch, and we like it. 2501 16th St., Denver, thehamptonsocial.com
Piadina Pugliese from Parisi
Fast casual is the name of the game at Berkley’s family-friendly Italian restaurant, and the thing to try is the Piadina Pugliese ($15). While it doesn’t look like much, the classic Italian flatbread sandwich offered all the joy of eating in three slices of hand-held glory. In this case the flatbread got stuffed with broccolini, Pugliese hot peppers, provolone, ricotta, and sausage. The cheese proved perfectly melty, and the other ingredients chopped fine enough that no knife or razor-sharp teeth were needed. 4401 Tennyson St., Denver, parisidenver.com
Callo de Hacha al las Brasas from Cozobi Fonda Fina
When chef Johnny Curiel decided to open a second location in Boulder, he wanted to bring a similar feeling to his first place, Alma Fonda Fina in LoHi, but with a totally different menu. Based on a dinner last month the chef succeeded, and none of the dishes served at the new place are available at the old. This includes the Callo de Hacha al las Brasas ($21), a Hokkaido scallop dish with an umami-rich tomato butter, serrano ponzu, and sprinkling of chives. It’s rich, decadent, comforting, and beautiful all at once. 909 Walnut St., Boulder, cozobifondafina.com
Potato Pavé from Ajax Denver
Last month Ajax Denver took over the former Citizen Rail spot in the LImelight Hotel. A direct transplant from Aspen, we expected fine things from the restaurant and it certainly delivered. While the aged ribeye, something the property is known for, tasted great, what stood out the most were the potatoes. Yes, the potatoes are one of the best bites of August.
But these aren’t your average spuds. The Potato Pavé ($18) features the root four ways starting with the creamy, charred layers of tender potato. Those chimney-shaped bites rest in a bed of smoked potato cream, with puffs of bite-sized potato soufflé, and a sprinkling of fresh truffles. It’s so luxurious, it may even beat out the classic fry. 1899 16th St., Denver, ajaxrestaurant.com
Colorado Green Chile Pizza from EatYa Pizza
Downtown’s newest pizza joint serves Roman-style pies by the slice. In fact, the slice is so big and thick, it’s split in half and could easily be a single meal itself. Chef Nick Kayser opened EatYa Pizza on the 16th Street Mall in May, and has been creating interesting and classic topping combinations ever since.
A recent favorite was the Colorado pork green chile ($8.50 per giant slice), which came out as a seasonal meat special. While it’s not always on the menu, the dish pops up frequently. When it does, make sure to dive into the spicy, cheesy pizza, which somehow Kayser makes in a way that doesn’t require a fork and knife or 20 napkins. 1530 16th St Mall, Denver, eatyapizza.com
Xiquita Restaurante y Bar
Pronounced “chiquita,” the new Uptown eatery by chefs Erasmo Casiano and chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez has been churning out intricate corn-based dishes since opening at the beginning of August. But we aren’t here to talk about corn, let’s discuss the unforgettable Asada de Res ($32).
To be fair, the wagyu skirt steak featured in the dish does get grilled and smoked with maíz leaf, though this only adds to the juicy, tender meat, without any strong corn nuances to be tasted. A bed of salsa arriera, or rosemary and chile arbol salsa, adds a smoky spice, while the pepita salsa helps cool. Absolutely order everything else on the menu, just make sure this dish is in the line up. 500 E. 19th Ave., Denver, xiquita.co
Tomato Salad at Señor Bear
While I know readers don’t love hearing about dishes that aren’t available in our best bites column, this tomato salad at Señor Bear was such a treat and we have to share it. The plate came thanks to chef Pablo Ranea from Argentina, who came to the restaurant to do an empanada pop up. The empanadas also wowed, though there’s something about the light, spicy, tangy, and flavorful salad that I just can’t shake. While this isn’t on the menu, head to the LoHi spot for the Tomato & Watermelon ($16), a similar dish with compressed melon and leche de tigre. 3301 Tejon St., Denver, senorbeardenver.com
