Drew Stevens at Room For Milly, fire show. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

Behind The Bar: Sensational Stories Surround Room For Milly

You have just found the prettiest bar in Denver, right on Platt Street. Room For Milly offers an adventure for every type of drinker.

BY Erica Buehler

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Milly Parker was an icon. She led a life full of travel, conversations with strangers, and the most dazzling kind of risk-taking. So it’s only fitting she have an elegant cocktail bar dedicated to her spirit and charm. At least, that’s what co-owner Fiona Arnold thought when she conceptualized Room For Milly.

“It’s inspired by a woman who lived her life by her own moral compass,” said Arnold, who also runs local hot spots Blue Sparrow Coffee and Queen’s Eleven. “Milly’s favorite night would be in a lounge, smoking and sipping a cocktail with people from all walks of life.”

Room For Milly owners Fiona Arnold and Jeffrey Knott. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
Room For Milly owners Fiona Arnold and Justin Dano. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

If you haven’t been, imagine a dreamy, feminine space with emerald walls and a chartreuse velvet couch set off by floral and geometric patterns from the floors to the throw pillows. It’s not small enough to be cramped, but not big enough to feel lost. In addition to the varied seating or standing options throughout the space, part of the bar drops down to be ADA-accessible.

Outside, a small patio along the Platte Street sidewalk calls for sipping languidly in the fresh air. The vibe is fun, classy, sassy, and welcoming to all who cross the threshold in search of good drinks or good company. And despite all the flare Milly brings, the woman headlining the bar is actually a work of fiction. 

However, in the cocktail bar proves very real and had a rough beginning. It entered the Denver food and bar scene in February, 2020. Three weeks later the pandemic shut down virtually everything. The grande dame persevered. Now, more than four years later, Room For Milly buzzes with new and familiar faces each day. 

The Tropical Treasure at Room For Milly. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
The Tropic Treasure at Room For Milly. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

Elegance In a Glass

At its core, the name of the game is high-quality craft cocktails, often with a side of simple theater. Whether the drinks arrive in a birdcage-shaped cocktail smoker or bright green and crackling with fire, there’s certainly a flourish in presentation. The aforementioned emerald concoction is the Matcha Murata ($18), a drink with a sparkle and bang and mixture of Roku Japanese gin, white rum, melon, coconut, pandan, pineapple, and matcha from Blue Sparrow. It sips super smooth, and should be a must-try, even for those who aren’t typically fans of matcha.

New to the menu and perfect for summer is the Tropic Treasure ($17), a delightful blend of pisco, mango, banana, macadamia, sudachi, orange, and ginger. Described as, “tantalizingly drawn by the caressing warm evening breeze,” it’s an example of the bar’s sensory connection to each beautiful creation. In fact, playing on the senses is a key factor for determining each menu. 

Matcha Murata uses macha from the owners' coffee shop. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
Matcha Murata uses macha from the owners’ coffee shop. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

That said, the foundation of the menu still lies in classic cocktails, think Old Fashioneds, mules, and martinis, the jumping point for any good cocktail bar. Justin Dano, co-owner and director of operations, said the process for curating the menu included a lot of discussion about great cocktail scenes in other cities and bringing ideas to Denver.

“The best inspiration is to draw from classics, always building from an archetype,” said Dano. “But we also want to make it fun for the guests, so the menu is sophisticated but still lighthearted, fun, and approachable.”

Creative Cocktail Magic

Things leveled up when bartender Drew Stevens joined the team after the closure of Green Russell. Room For Milly was his personal haunt on days off, so the transition had a bit of an organic element to it. After reading Milly’s story, Stevens wanted to reflect the mythology in the cocktail program. Given his background both as a mixologist and an executive sushi chef, he had a singular edge to cocktail creation, supplemented by constant researching via internet trends, books, and sources like Bon Appétit. 

Bar maverick Drew Stevens making drinks. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
Bar maverick Drew Stevens making drinks. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

“I’m always trying to find new tech and ingredients to use in drinks, but making sure the drink itself still tastes good,” Stevens added. “I’m a big fan of tasting and breaking down flavor molecules. Then, beyond the flavor is the drink’s presentation, tactile sensation, the glassware it’s in, and the aroma past the drink itself.”

The menu also lists several thoughtful zero-proof drinks, an acknowledgement to the growing sober curious movement especially present in Denver. Arnold and her team recognize how important it is when serving a nonalcoholic beverage that it’s well-crafted, balanced and complex, just like an alcoholic one would be. Current zero-proof offerings ($11 each) include the light and bubbly Hibiki Spritz, tangy Summer Sour, and refreshing Saigon Mojito.

Sip and Study at Room For Milly

If any of this sounds intimidating, don’t fret—that’s the exact opposite of how the Room For Milly team wants guests to feel. Whether you’re strolling in for something complex and specific or are simply interested in dipping a toe into the craft cocktail world, you will be met with a seat at the bar and a friendly face ready to answer all of your questions.

Inside the elegant bar. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
Inside the elegant bar. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

Additionally, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the feminine bar draws a demographic of roughly 80-percent women. Because of this, and because Arnold’s company Mainspring is really into data and transparency, one of the pillars of Room For Milly is being a welcoming and safe place to be. 

“We wanted to create a space where women felt comfortable,” said Arnold, who mentions growing the wine program to include a sommelier, natural wines, and organic option is a piece of that. “Wine is the next biggest part after the cocktail bar, and though no one would think of RFM as a wine bar, our Somm Saturdays have been so popular.”

Smoking a cocktail. | Photo by Ashley Beguin
Smoking a cocktail. | Photo by Ashley Beguin

There’s also an extra layer of intention with every drink and moment throughout the space, from the ingredients to the cocktail names to the chosen decor, it all ties back to Milly. Whether it’s the curry element of the Tropic Treasure, or the hand-painted mural behind the bar playing on Milly’s travels to India, or My Dearest Pike being a nod to Milly’s love interest and her time in South America, nearly every detail of the bar was carefully calculated by Arnold and her team. It’s an adventure in a glass, with snacks, art, and good company along the way.

Visit Room For Milly Monday through Thursday from 3 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 3 to 11 p.m., and Sunday from 3 to 8 p.m. There’s a daily happy hour from 3 to 5 p.m. each day. 1615 Platte St. Suite 145, Denver, roomformilly.com

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Erica Buehler

Erica Buehler is a Denver-based editor and writer motivated by oat milk lattes and sizzling hot queso. Catch her with a Hugo Spritz in hand and a seat by the window. Find her bylines in Thrillist, Late Checkout, Medicinal Media, and more.
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