Sunday service never tasted so good as Church & Union slays weekend brunch with an epic breakfast board, fried chicken, and plenty of mimosas.
Though an array of unique, Denver-oriented tidbits are offered at Church & Union, it’s actually the fourth location of the concept by 5th Street Group and co-owned by Top Chef alum, Jamie Lynch. The group opened the restaurant in September, 2024, and recently started serving brunch to hungry downtowners and tourists.
Built in 1896, the building housing Church & Union originally held the St. Elmo Hotel. For the last four years the edifice sat empty. Now, it’s literally a work of art inside while still paying homage to the history surrounding the area. It’s big too, with 7,500-square-feet of space, a 150-person dining room, a 30-seat patio, a private dining room, and a full-service bar complete with seating.
Finding the spot may prove tricky, the signage for the restaurant remains in limbo, awaiting city approval. But once inside, there’s no doubt you’ve come to the right place for an unforgettable meal.
Eat the Menu
Overall the menu offers approachable, modern American cuisine. Lynch, a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, brings a wealth of experience from working under acclaimed chefs such as Michael Mina at Aqua in San Francisco, and Andrew Carmellini at La Cirque 2000 in New York. After 9/11, Lynch moved south, where his passion for sustainable farming began and is now woven into his menus.
Start with chef Lynch’s favorite brunch item, Brioche French Toast ($20). Topped with whipped maple mascarpone and huckleberry marmalade, the dish gets elevated with locally-sourced pine needles.
To incorporate the indigenous ingredient, Lynch collaborated with executive chef Darren Pusateri, a Colorado native who foraged the pine needles himself. The result comes through with distinctive floral notes and a subtle forest-like aroma to the marmalade. Lynch recommends pairing the dish with a shot of espresso ($6) to balance the sweetness.
Another standout is the Shrimp and Grits ($29), a creative take on a Southern classic. Featuring bacon, stone-ground grits, spring onion, and roasted mushrooms, the combination achieves a perfect balance of flavors and textures without relying on heavy spices. The dish also pays homage to the restaurant group’s Southern roots.
Also on the menu you’ll find a savory Southern Salad ($17) with avocado, corn, tomato, pickled red onion, croutons, cotija, and a creamy poblano dressing. Add on shrimp ($11) to make it a well-rounded meal. Also try the Avocado Toast ($16), a fun take on the popular “hipster”healthy” item featuring ricotta, lemon zest, and everything bagel seasoning.
Larger plates such as the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($21) with a smooth Alabama white sauce and home fries definitely fill one up. So does the classic The CU Burger ($22), and the array of omelets (starting at $19) stuffed with all sorts of edible delights.
The Art at Church & Union
Diners can’t escape the artistic bent to Church & Union, it literally covers the whole ceiling and can be found flanking the walls all around the restaurant. Looking up, the ceiling features artist Jon Norris’ hand-painted transcription of Sun Tzu’s The Art of War. The North Carolina artist spent over 400 hours decorating the space, and if you look closely you may find a few off-script Easter eggs.
Other striking pieces surrounding the main dining room include a buffalo painting by Nathaniel Lancaster, and an oversized $5 bill mural created by artists Matt Hooker and Rodney Raines. The latter features a portrait of Black Kettle, the Southern Cheyenne leader and peacemaker. Framing the image it reads,“We have gathered here together to break bread.” Other nods to Denver inside the bill include the Broncos logo and local landmarks.
Search more and you’ll find a large abstract Rootism work by Justin Rivenbark and another piece by Hooker inside the private dining space. Hooker’s image is a modern ode to Moritz Retzsch’s famous Checkmate, a 1831 painting depicting a boy playing chess against Satan.
Drink Up
For a caffeine boost, the barista menu offers a variety of coffee-forward options, including the CU Specialty Blend Coffee ($5), americano, cappuccino, and latte (all $7). If you’re in the mood for a classic Mimosa, choose based on size from the single ($7) to carafe ($20) to bottomless ($30). Other staples include a Bloody Mary ($14) or the best of both morning worlds, a dangerously sippable Espresso Martini ($16).
The full drink menu of wine, beer, and specialty cocktails is also available during brunch. You can always ask the staff for a recommendation too. Recently, the suggested Ready Orgeat ($16) proved a real delight with vodka blended with lemon, fresh strawberries, cucumber, and mint.
Don’t Miss This Church & Union Specialty
If you’re aiming to wow a crowd, or even a small table of friends, make sure to order the Holy Sh*t Breakfast ($38 per person, two-person minimum). The show-stopping spread is as grand as its name suggests. Served on a wooden plank, the feast impresses with fried chicken, eggs, bacon, house-made donuts, biscuits, and house-made jam. The price tag also includes the choice of a Mimosa or Bloody Mary .
Visit Church & Union for brunch Friday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 1433 17th St., Denver, churchandunion.com
