For chef and restaurateur Troy Guard, inspiration for his restaurants doesn’t come from sitting around an office, it stems from eating out and experiencing other places and neighborhoods.
Save for TAG, his first space, every concept has found a place due to opportunities of location, deals, and neighborhood. In fact, the chef’s popular Guard and Grace in downtown Denver came after he had secured the building. He wasn’t looking for a steakhouse space, it came to him.
“I looked at what tenants were going to be in the building, and it was oil and gas and law firms, so I knew I needed a space for business lunches and happy hours,” said Guard, who toggled between opening an American grill or steakhouse. “American grill sounds more casual, or on a certain playing level, but you say steakhouse and I think of a higher level.”
At the end of the day, said Guard, he went with his gut and launched the steakhouse. He also offered free valet, which ended up costing around $50,000 a year, for five years. The cost was worth it, he said, and got people in the door and hooked on the experience. Now, it’s one of the top steakhouses in the city.
Guard runs an array of eateries, think Mexican at Los Chingones, steak at Guard and Grace, burgers at TAG Burger, breakfast fare at #Hashtag, and soon, Swedish-inspired bites at Eggs Inc., which is a concept from Sweden that Guard will co-open in Denver. But just because the chef has plenty of cuisines to sample from at his own places, he still loves to explore what the city has to offer.
“I have been here 23 years now and I love the growth of Denver,” he said over the phone. “When I first started off I could count on one hand the top restaurants. But now I can’t count on my fingers and toes plus yours. It’s hard to pick [my favorites] because there are so many good ones.”
Yet, as Guard embraces the culinary landscape he shares where he likes to eat when not working. Turns out sushi is high on the list.
Tavernetta
This Italian restaurant by Frasca Hospitality Group is one of Guard’s favorite places to go, mainly for the fresh pastas, imported meat and cheese, wine list, and the epic half-chicken dish. The latter came after a friend insisted on ordering the chicken, which is not something Guard usually goes for. It took an hour to make, but it was one of the best chicken dishes he ever had. Pro tip, added Guard, order from the Union Station restaurant in advance so it’s ready for you sans the long wait. 1889 16th St. Mall, Denver, tavernettadenver.com
Guard’s Go-To Order at Snarf’s Sandwiches
“This is my go-to sandwich,” said Guard. His favorite order consists of a five-inch Italian on toasted bread with spicy giardiniera, but no mayo or mustard. He also skips the onion, because, he added, “It gives me bad breath.” Various locations, eatsnarfs.com
Chipotle
It may surprise readers that the chef counts Chipotle as one of his favorite spots, but for it’s the consistency and convenience of the 31-year-old brand. Whenever he visits the fast food chain he orders the same thing, a chicken bowl with brown rice, black beans, pico de gallo, lettuce, and cheese.
To spice it up he uses the bottled hot sauce from Los Chingones, which he carries around everywhere. Then he eats half, and saves the rest for either as a snack later or to add to an egg scramble for breakfast the next day. Various locations, chipotle.com
Rioja Brings Nostalgia to Guard
It’s no shock Guard has respect and a fondness for chef Jennifer Jasinski’s high-end Mediterranean restaurant on Larimer Square; they were neighbors for years.
“With Jen’s place, I like to hear what the specials of the day are since I know they are going to be creative and that’s always fun,” said Guard, who also loves the signature artichoke tortelloni ($27). “They do a great job on the fish and meat entrees.”
Rioja just celebrated 20 years in business, run by Jasinski and her co-owner Beth Gruitch. While the team opened other places including Bistro Vendome, Stoic & Genuine, and Ultreia, they recently announced a step back, passing the reins to long-time chefs, closing the seafood concept, and stepping into a full-time role at Rioja. 1431 Larimer St., Denver, riojadenver.com
Tamaki Den at The Source
Guard loves sushi, it’s one of his favorite foods. For a full sushi dinner he likes to head to Tamaki Den inside The Source in RiNo. The floating restaurant is owned by Kenta Kamo and Toshi Kizaki, the name behind Sushi Den and Ototo in Washington Park.
The real draw, said Guard, comes in the menu and its lack of sushi rolls in favor of individual pieces. That way, he added, he can try a lot of different items, including the restaurant’s signature sushi dish, aburi, a type of nigiri that’s partially grilled or seared.
“Since TAG closed I don’t have any of these items like torched sushi, crispy sushi, or seared sashimi,” said the chef. “I like that here you can get it by the piece, and I love the atmosphere in that great old building.” 3350 Brighton Blvd., Denver, temakiden.com
Now Pho Speaks to Guard
We understand why Guard loves Now Pho on Federal, it’s one of our top spots too. The shop dishes out classic bowls of pho and spring rolls. Guard really likes how the restaurant offers different sizes of pho, so he and other diners can decide how much they want to eat. Another favorite of his is the Grilled Pork Vermicelli Noodle Bowl ($15.99), he added. Plus, it’s now open late night for those craving soup at all hours. 1195 S. Federal Blvd., Denver, nowphodenver.com
Hillstone in Cherry Creek
Even though it’s a more corporate place, said Guard, he loves to visit Hillstone for sushi. Yes, sushi, which wasn’t something we realized the restaurant had.
“Since they opened the restaurant, their menu has grown big, and almost half the menu is sushi,” advised Guard. “It’s really popular in Cherry Creek.”
The chef also loves the Spinach Dip, which he believes is so good, he even offered to buy us one. Of course, he added, the French Dip always tops the list, though he can only eat half or else we will have to take a nap. 303 Josephine St., Denver, hillstonerestaurant.com
