At this point it’s no secret the suburbs of Denver host some of the best ethnic restaurants in town. But there are so many of them, it’s hard to start without a savvy guide who knows the area. Enter Kim and Vinny Nguyen, an aunt and nephew duo who not only love a good meal, but always share it family style. This time, we headed to Bistro King in Englewood.
This food-focused adventure took us to Englewood. Though for Vinny, it didn’t take long since he lived nearby, which is why we decided to go in the first place. He knew the secret to getting the good menu, not the plastic version showcasing the Americanized Chinese food many people think they crave.
True, I won’t ever pass on a crab cheese wonton or hot and sour soup, but the goal of the meal was to try Bistro King’s traditional Sichuan dishes. To see these, the paper menu must be requested. On it you’ll see Chinese characters as well as a simple English translation. With Kim and Vinny as our guide, we had an idea of what was good, and what new things to try.
Why We Went Here
Bistro King has served in Englewood for over a decade, specializing in Chinese food with a side of Japanese and Thai. From the outside, the restaurant looks like any other old, slightly beaten neighborhood eatery built in the 1950s. The inside also appears stuck in time, but despite the blandness of decor, there was nothing old, bland, or downtrodden about the food.
Vinny had been raving about the “secret” menu, and how the Sichuan plates were some of the best in Denver. So, we met up with Kim and Vinny, taking center stage at a large round table. While the table could have sat eight, we knew we needed the space for all the dishes we would inevitably order. That turned out to be a good call.
The Food at Bistro King
Don’t let anyone tell you there isn’t good Chinese food in the Denver Metro area, that’s simply not true. Bistro King is one of those great places, something we discovered with the first dish, a cucumber salad ($10.98) laden with spicy chili oil and garlic. The fresh cucumbers come smashed to help soak in all the glorious heat of the liquid.
Once done, the leftover sauce goes perfectly with the Chicken Fried Rice ($13.98), the one of two dishes we got off the “regular” menu. The fried rice alone sang with a balance of umami, crisp cooked veggies, and chicken pieces that melted right in.
The second normal menu item we ordered was the Salt and Pepper Fried Calamari ($10.48). With salt and pepper as the only spice, it surprised us in its simplicity. The batter on the large, onion-ring-sized pieces proved light, like tempura batter, and unlike many fried items, the calamari wasn’t heavy.
Back to the special menu. The Spicy Sichuan Chicken ($18.98) came covered in crispy chili flakes. The nuggets were fried and without a sauce, yet we couldn’t stop popping the semi-spicy bites into our mouths. Another winning dish was the Home Style Eggplant with Ground Pork ($14.98). The eggplant melted on the tongue in a tingling, delightful way. Even if someone professed they didn’t like the nightshade, we are sure they would enjoy this dish.
An order of Boiled Fish with Rattan Pepper ($23.98) proved light and a nice deviation from the fried foods and rice. Though dubbed spicy, it wasn’t too strong, and came in a light broth teeming with whole peppercorns.
One of the secrets to the spice at Bistro King comes from sourcing fresh peppercorns from China. It was noticeable too. While the Sichuan dishes packed heat, it was more of the cooling, tingly feeling rather than hot sauce searing. It’s not an easy flavor to find in Colorado, but when you do it’s memorable and creates a unique craving.
Don’t Miss This Bistro King Signature Dish
Jinsha Golden Corn With Salted Egg Yolk ($16.98) was the one dish Kim couldn’t stop talking about. It was, she said, the main reason she loved Bistro King so much. It did not disappoint.
The basis of the dish is fried sweet corn kernels dusted in flour and tossed with mashed and salted egg yolks. While simple, the piping hot platter of golden corn tastes like an indulgent treat. It’s both sweet and savory, snack-y and toothsome, and perfect to share.
Head to this Englewood restaurant soon, and make sure to bring a gaggle of friends, you will want to try it all and the best way to do that is to share, family style.
Visit Bistro King on Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Monday and Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; closed Wednesday; Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. 3542 S. Fox St., Englewood, ruanbistroking.com
Where should we go next? Help us explore the richness of Denver’s suburban restaurants. In the meantime, read about the last place we were Off the Eaten Path.
