Denver loves brunch. Each Wednesday, we dish out the latest and greatest brunch spots around town, highlighting our favorite haunts and the dishes you crave. So pour a mimosa, grab a cup of coffee, and get ready to dig in.
When chef Kenneth Wan and his wife Doris Yuen opened MAKfam off of South Broadway at the end of 2023, much fanfare followed. Not only does the line up of Chinese málà wings and sizzling noodles sing with spice, but the crux of the food program is highlighting MSG as a key component.
Yes, monosodium glutamate, that long snubbed and misunderstood Asian ingredient used to make things, well, taste extra good. The goal in highlighting what is essentially salt is part of the owners’ goal to triumph over the racist past MSG has in association with Chinese food. For those who don’t know, MSG is technically sodium salt of glutamic acid, the natural compound that gives cheese, soy sauce, and tomatoes an umami kick.
We’re totally here for it. And now, we’re totally here for the new brunch service, which launched a few weeks ago.
Eat the Menu
The menu isn’t huge, which makes ordering everything a baller move for a party of four. Yes, you will be full, but also very, very happy. For those looking for a smaller meal, start with chef Wan’s creative dim sum.
The Pork and Shrimp Shumai ($9.50) come four to a plate and are only available on weekends. An order of four Spicy Chili Wontons ($10) complimented the milder shumai, kicking up that tingly heat MAKfam is known for. But, if you prefer something on the milder side, the Spam and Egg Bao Bun ($5.50 each) offers fluffy bites of soft milk buns with an umami kick from the tinned meat and sprinkling of MSG. While the last dish may not sound exciting, it’s actually a bright and flavorful bite you won’t want to share.
On the larger side, Yuen said the Steak and Eggs With Garlic Butter Rice ($25) will hook any meat-loving diner. But for those craving lighter fare, the Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Jian Bing ($13) is a great substitute for a classic breakfast burrito. This dish sports a crispy scallion pancake as the wrap, and comes stuffed with the proteins as well as bean sprouts, cilantro, and MAKsauce. Add a dollop of chili crisp to heat it up. For vegetarians and vegans, the tofu and avocado version ($13) proves just as spectacular.
Drink Up
Since the beginning MAKfam has sported colorful and creative drinks, and some come in custom-made tiki cups that require an ID deposit with each order. The brunch cocktail menu also has a lot of exciting options.
For an Asian take on the classic Bloody Mary, the bartenders have whipped up the Tiger Mom ($13). In the glass you’ll find MAKfam’s signature Bloody Mary mix, local vodka, house-made pickles, and the option to add on a málà mozzarella stick or slice of bacon for an extra $1. Pro move, upgrade to the Sichuan Five Spice tequila for an extra kick.
The Little Tiger ($15) also features the aforementioned tequila, and mixes it with mandarin juice, vanilla, coconut, white vermouth, and a splash of lemon. We were also excited by the Hong Kong Iced Tea ($15) after watching servers carrying it through the restaurant a few times. The cocktail comes inside a Hong Kong-brand lemon iced tea box, and is enhanced with cognac, yuzu curaçao, and honey.
On the non-boozy side, caffeinate with a creamy glass of coconut cold brew coffee ($6). It’s lightly spiced with cinnamon and dou si, also known as Chinese fermented black beans. The Hong Kong style milk tea ($6) also offered a detour from the average cup of Joe, featuring local drink company Die Die Must Try’s iced black tea with sweetened condensed milk.
Don’t Miss This MAKfam Brunch Specialty
I would like to preface this by saying that sweet breakfasts are not my thing. Yet, something about the Salted Egg Yolk Hong Kong French Toast ($10) spoke to me. The vegetarian dish comprises house-made milk bread, salted egg yolk custard, and condensed milk.
It’s sugary in a plain doughnut sort of way, but not saccharine. The outside of the toast proves crisp, but inside it’s like breaking into a treasure box of umami sweetness. I had it weeks ago and I haven’t stopped thinking about it. Given the price, it’s something everyone should try, though be warned, you might not want to share. And guess what, you don’t have to.
Visit MAKfam for brunch Saturday and Sunday starting at 11 a.m. 39 W. 1st Ave., Denver, makfam.co
