It’s no shock that the beer industry is male-dominated. But to what extent is this imbalance? Here’s a sobering statistic: According to a recent analysis from the Brewers Association, less than 3% of the nation’s breweries are solely owned by women.
Chelsea Rhoads and Elizabeth Hess are among the female founders driving representation. Earlier this year, the longtime friends and industry veterans acquired Berkeley Alley Beer Company, which they’ve since rebranded to Alley Brews.
The nanobrewery has seen several other new changes, including a more comprehensive beer selection, daytime coffee service, and the introduction of a barbecue-centric food menu. Here’s more of what to expect at this reimagined community hub off Tennyson Street.
The All-Women Team
Rhoads helped to open 4 Noses Brewing Company, one of the state’s best craft breweries, in 2014. This first foray into the industry sparked her interest in entrepreneurship, leading her to pivot into real estate and later, a tech start-up alongside Hess, one of her closest friends. However, they soon discovered that compared to the corporate world, craft beer was much more fun.
By establishing the Body By Beer podcast, they garnered insights from industry experts, composed books, and even founded a brewery consulting company. What was missing, though, was their own beer-making operation.
After years of searching for the perfect space, Rhoads learned that Berkeley Alley Beer Company was up for sale. She recalled, “By the time we got about a week out of closing, we were like, ‘Oh shit, we’re actually going to own a brewery at the end of all this.’”
Their pinch-me moment quickly dissolved into a host of to-dos, including rebranding, hiring staff members (all of whom are women), and creating a bigger and better menu.
The Expansive Menu
“The original owners did a lot of high ABV Belgian beers, which is great. I think it really fit the time when it opened in 2013, the boom of the craft beer space,” commented Rhoads. But the industry and consumers’ tastes have since changed in significant ways. Having more options allows us to be a more welcoming space for everybody.”
While she oversees the front-of-house, Hess manages all brewing operations and crafts around one hundred barrels per year. Though far below that of microbrewery definition, her production has already outpaced the previous ownership’s rate.
It’s a promising sign for Alley Brews’ strategy which does not emphasize a particular beer style, but rather, caters to a wider range of preferences. Black Dog is a flagship offering that takes inspiration from Guinness, which has seen a recent surge of popularity among women.
An American wheat ale made with blackberry purée, Dad Jokes serves as a fruit-forward option. Rhoads also describes it as the ‘fajita effect’ beer because when people see its pink hue, the orders come rolling in.
Taps pour everything from a big and boozy triple IPA to low ABV selections. Pucker Nuts falls in the latter category. Rhoads explained that prior to the rebrand, this Berliner Weiss was a local favorite. “We just thought it was a little bit too heavy, the original recipe, so we lightened and brightened it up a bit.” Now, the sour beer tastes of lemon meringue and a hint of pistachio, and at just 3.3 percent ABV, you can treat yourself to two.
The brewery also offers several non-alcoholic options and, to liven up Dry January, it plans to serve housemade hop waters as an education-focused flight. “Hop waters are how I learned the most about hops because it’s the only flavor in there,” said Rhoads, adding that their nuances in beer are often masked by malts and other hop varieties.
If the flavor of pine and lemon peels isn’t your thing, no worries. Alley Brews also features a selection of wine, as well as coffee beverages made with locally sourced beans. With the latter program’s recent launch, the space is now open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Additionally, Alley Brews has partnered with Longmont-based Hesher BBQ on a flavorful food menu. Savor barbecue ramen ($12-$16), sliders ($10-$12), and creamy mac and cheese ($8-$14) topped with your choice of brisket, pulled pork, or vegetarian smoked jackfruit.
“We’re this little, cute brewery down the way in the alley. There are people that have lived in this area for a decade and don’t even know we exist,” commented Rhoads. “Our goal is, when people do finally get into the doors, that they’re surprised at how good everything is.”
The State of the Industry
Alley Brews has changed hands twice in the past four years. All the while, longstanding breweries like Jagged Mountain, Raices, and TRVE have shuttered. Likewise, all three Sanitas locations and Call to Arms, which neighbors Alley Brews, will close before the end of the year.
Despite this, Rhoads remains confident for two particular reasons. For one, she believes that comprehensive offerings will work in the company’s favor. “Tennyson’s a great community. It has a lot of work-from-home people, which is why we’re opening for coffee. Getting the doors open more often and having a more diverse menu with cocktails and wine brings in people [beyond] the beer-drinkers.”
Secondly, under the current circumstances, Rhoads considers microbrewery status to be a big benefit. “A lot of breweries that are closing down are medium size, so the bulk of their revenue came from distribution, and distribution really came to a screeching halt.”
She explained that during the pandemic, “A lot of places ramped up distribution and really oversaturated the market because that was the only way to stay alive.” But with increased staff, training costs, and the purchase of expensive canning equipment, she questions whether these businesses made their investment back.
On top of customers buying less, two new products are booming and no, they’re not non-alcoholic drinks. Rather, Rhoads affirmed, “Seltzers and hard teas took over so much of the market.” She notes that given consumers’ demand for these lower-calorie options, liquor stores and grocers “needed to make space and unfortunately, you’re not going to kick out Budweiser. You’re not going to kick out Coors.”
Rather than distribution, nanobreweries make the bulk of their revenue from on-site operations. To conscientiously scale Alley Brews, Rhoads hopes to increase the footprint of its taproom. She concluded, “I have hopes and visions that we grow out of the size of this space. If we can really nail the aspects that we think are a big priority, I think we have a lot of potential.”
Visit Alley Brews from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 4342 Tennyson St., Denver, alleybrews.com
