The people of Emilia-Romagna live and eat well, and for those visiting it’s easy to fall in love with the cuisine, the wine, and the warm reception. That’s what happened to the team from Restaurant Olivia. Now, they share the wonders of the northern Italian region through their second restaurant concept, Dear Emilia.
“I always felt welcomed and like I belonged there,” recalled Heather Morrison, an authority in the art of hosting, which even earned her recognition in the latest Michelin guide.
Morrison co-owns the restaurants along with her husband and bar director Austin Carson, and chef Ty Leon. As with Olivia, Dear Emilia brings the same attention to ingredients, cooking techniques, regional wines and spirits. Though, as with any second child, the DNA may be the same, but the menu, space, and overall feeling remains completely different. However, while Dear Emilia feels like an instant success, it almost didn’t happen.
Embracing an Opportunity
When the trio came up with the idea behind Olivia they kept it straight forward and organic. At the time they were operating a kiosk in Avanti Denver, but saw it as a precursor to a brick-and-mortar restaurant. The simple act of going out to talk about the future blossomed into one of the best Italian spots in town.
“The three of us wanted to go someplace and talk about our upcoming restaurants, and we wanted to eat fresh pasta while we did it,” said Morrison. “Honestly, it’s as simple as that.”
Turns out they weren’t alone in wanting this sort of place to conference, and handmade linguine and a glass of wine makes property planning more compelling too. In fact, brokers with real estate firm Schnitzer West adored Olivia so much, they reached out with a proposal: Would the restaurateurs want to open a concept within their new RiNo development?
The Olivia co-founders were hesitant, even doubtful at first. But Morrison admitted that after seeing the ground-floor space at The Current and realizing its potential, they fell in love. The offer was well timed too since the trio had just returned from an inspiring, delicious retreat to Emilia-Romagna. Once again, the concept blossomed organically.
Designing a Transportive Space
While the idea came easily, executing said concept was, by no means, a walk in the piazza. The space, however perfect, was also a blank slate in need of a build out from top to bottom. But despite delays and exceeded costs, Dear Emilia made its debut two years later on January 29. As the doors finally opened, guests were in awe, even before taking a seat.
At the entry, a large glass pane puts the bustling kitchen on full display. Large exterior windows flood the main space with natural light, while arched ceilings add to the sense of openness. Yet, this design element also creates intimacy, forming dramatic nooks along one coveted wall.
Tables and cushioned booths lean toward mid-century modern in design, and seats a total of 88 guests. There’s also space for 10 on the patio, six at the chef’s counter, and 22 within the private dining room. Subtle features, such as lime-washed textures and natural stone, give a nod to modern Italian interiors.
Morrison credited Kevin Nguyen, founder of Regular Architecture, for achieving the co-founders’ vision. “He is a magician,” she praised. “The traditions behind the Emilia-Romagna region were very much a part of what we told Kevin we wanted our guests to feel.”
She and her partners’ creative direction was just that: not aesthetics, but the feeling of visiting someone’s farm in the Italian countryside, drinking their neighbor’s wine, and twirling a fork into their mother’s pasta bolognese. The restaurateurs wanted to capture the beautiful sense of community, warmth, and comfort that they personally experienced abroad.
Though it sounds like a tall task, Nguyen is an expert. He’s designed more than 30 restaurant interiors across the metro area, including those of Hop Alley, BearLeek, and Beckon. Once again, he translated emotions into something tangible.
“The real intent was to create a space that allows the team’s food and beverage to carry the narrative,” Nguyen affirmed in a press release. “Our design provides the frame; their hospitality brings it to life.”
Parmesan, Prosciutto, and More
Every dish is a love letter to Emilia-Romagna, which the world has to thank for tagliatelle, traditional balsamico, prosciutto di Parma, and more. Perhaps the most famous food to come from this region is Parmesan-Reggiano, which Dear Emilia celebrates in the form of a warm, airy soufflé ($21) served with a drizzle of imported grape honey.
On the menu, the selection of starters is followed by pastas, which chef Leon has perfected. Morrison called special attention to the lasagna verde ($28) and its handmade spinach pasta layered with pomodoro sauce, béchamel, and an iconic symbol of the region: bolognese.
“It’s just a really beautiful dish that I’ve watched people enjoy night after night,” she said, adding that it’s shaping up to be a guest favorite.
Within the entrée category, Morrison recommended the milk-braised pork shoulder ($38), which puts a twist on a traditional Italian cooking technique. Rather than solely simmering the meat in whole milk, chef Leon incorporates whey, a byproduct from his housemade mascarpone. This tender, flavorful cut is then plated with locally-sourced polenta and preserved Colorado peaches. It’s a stellar example of the restaurateurs’ sustainability efforts.
Though you may be tempted to order one of everything, you must save room for the final course. After touring hazelnut farms in the neighboring Piedmont region, the co-owners decided on a gianduia tiramisu as a signature dessert. Its chocolate hazelnut flavor pairs lusciously with light mascarpone and espresso-soaked ladyfingers.
Like at many Italian restaurants, the wine list will be your friend throughout the meal. Sommelier Scott Thomas has laid this out in a way that allows you to navigate it solo, but don’t be afraid to chat with the staff. They’ll point you in the right direction and perhaps to something new.
“Not very many people understand a sparkling red wine,” commented Morrison, referring to the menu’s spotlight on Lambrusco. “That is not just the wine of Emilia-Romagna, but the beverage of Emilia-Romagna. It’s such a beautiful food wine.”
Morrison also noted its versatility. For example, you’ll notice a blood orange Lambrusco spritz ($15) among the mix of aperitivo-inspired cocktails. Several make the most of local ingredients, leading to unexpected infusions like heirloom tomato consommé in its house martini ($19).
While there’s no wrong answer when navigating the Dear Emilia menus, you can also ask one of the well-versed servers where to start. Then, make a plan for the next visit.
Visit Dear Emilia between Tuesday and Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m. Additional service, including a sixth day and lunch seatings, will launch at a later date. Reservations are available via Tock. 3615 Delgany St., Denver, emiliadenver.com
