La Caverne doesn’t broadcast its presence. Instead, the sneaky, sexy supper club opts for the allure of discovery, rewarding the curious with fine French wines, expertly crafted cocktails, and a rotating prix fixe meal that defies the transient nature of pop-up ventures. But, as an offshoot of the currently closed Cooper Lounge, the basement beauty won’t be around too long.
The Vibe
Starting at 4 p.m. on Thursday through Saturday, La Caverne buzzes with the sounds of live jazz. But it’s not just music, it’s an ambiance setting the stage for a dance floor frequented by couples who still believe in the art of the swing.
Find this musical haven downstairs in the Webb Gallery, a 2,380-square-foot space set into the stone foundations of the historic Union Station. The layout showcases a mix of high tops, lounge seating, and a cozy six-seat bar, all bathed in low light. Enjoy the vintage-industrial elegance of the space as well as artwork commissioned by the station.
The Drinks
The cocktail menu features elegant standards including French 75, Vesper, Sazerac, and Vieux Carré, alongside some more innovative options. I opted for the Brunelle, a blend of absinthe, lemon, and sugar to a delightfully refreshing end. The nitro-fueled Negroni also hit the spot, a perfect balance of bitter, sweet, and boozy. Of course one can’t go wry with wine, which the menu boasts plenty of as well.
The Food
Offering a prix fixe menu for $55, the ever-changing selections feature three options for each of the courses. When we visited, the first plate included mushroom soup, duck and pork rillette, or a salad topped with burrata. I opted for the latter, the burrata offering a creamy balance to the tart meyer lemon vinaigrette and complementing the orange and beets also in the dish.
Entrée options included a rustic cassoulet, roast chicken breast with creamed leeks, and gnocchi with roasted delicata squash, sage, brown butter, pecorino, hazelnut, and red pepper couli. Of the three, we tried two. The gnocchi proved pillowy and rich, and the squash melted on the tongue. The chicken dish wowed equally with a crisp skin and juicy meat underneath.
For dessert, mousse au chocolat and tarte tatin were on the menu. However, when there’s a crème brûlée option, that’s what I’m having. It was and remains, an excellent choice.
Find It
There’s an air of exclusivity to the experience that envelops you the moment you step through the doors of Union Station and into the Grand Hall. Finding the entrance isn’t easy. I had someone direct me to it. When I finally found it, I noticed a small, understated sign noting the club. But for you, the mystery is revealed.
First, head toward Stoic & Genuine, where, right before the restaurant, is a stairwell and/or elevator to the basement. It’s here you’ll find the hidden Art Deco space oozing speakeasy vibes with a live jazz band setting the soundtrack.
Overall, La Caverne’s allure isn’t solely the ambiance or menu, but its place in the narrative of the grand transportation hub. The supper club is part of Union Station’s grand remodeling project, now celebrating a decade since the Beaux-Arts masterpiece, circe 1914, reopened with a complete renovation. Today, it stands not only as a train and bus station, but as Denver’s living room, with La Caverne as its hidden speakeasy. For now, like all good things, this one will only last so long.
Visit La Caverne Wednesday through Saturday, 4p.m. to midnight. Reservations recommended, though sometimes there’s bar seating if you want to pop down for a cocktail. It will go on until Cooper Lounge opens again in early summer. Located in Denver Union Station, lower level, 1701 Wynkoop St., Denver, denverunionstation.com/locations/la-caverne-supper-club
