Now is the time for latkes, that delightfully greasy, slightly salty Jewish potato pancake most commonly consumed during Hanukkah.
“My best memories from Hanukkah are sitting around the kitchen with everyone gathered and eating latkes together,” recalled Josh Wolkon, owner of Steuben’s. “We’d eat so many that we couldn’t fit anything else in.”
For Gentiles who may not know the ins and outs of Hanukkah, it’s the Jewish holiday celebrating freedom, both from oppression and religious expression. The story behind the holiday speaks to the “miracle of the oil,” which happened after the Maccabean Revolt in 1 BCE, when Jewish rebels reclaimed the Temple in Jerusalem from Seleucid invaders. Upon re-entering the Temple, the rebels only found enough oil to light the menorah for one day, but miraculously it burned for eight. Hence, the eight days of Hanukkah.
Where Latkes Come In
As for latkes, the simple but addictive dish has been a symbol of this miracle for eons. All because each potato pancake gets fried in oil.
“It’s customary to eat foods cooked in oil during Hanukkah to celebrate the miracle of the oil,” explained Rabbi Joe Black of Temple Emanuel. “I remember my grandma, who was from Russia, making latkes by grinding up potatoes in a big wooden chopping bowl, and the delicious smells that would fill up the house.”
For the Rabbi, his secret ingredient is green chilies. But for Miles Odell, owner of Odell’s Bagel in Highland, it’s all about the shmaltz, that rendered chicken fat often referred to as “liquid gold” in Jewish cooking.
“Just like bagels, everyone has an opinion about latkes,” expressed Odell. “How I like them is thin and crispy, and I want some crunch in every bite with a little creaminess in the middle from the natural potato starch.
Over at Steuben’s, they do things a bit differently.
“I grew up with what I’d call a ‘Steuben’s Style’ latke, where the potatoes are ground in a food processor until they’re almost pulverized, then mixed with onions,” Wolkon recounted. “This makes a latke that’s crispy on the outside and softer on the inside, without that shredded mouth feel.”
While the latke making process may vary from chef to chef, the heart of the tradition remains the same.
“Hanukkah is about standing up for what you believe in, fighting oppression, and finding light in the midst of darkness,” continued Rabbi Black. “With the longest nights of the year upon us and the challenges happening around the world today, we need moments to celebrate light.”
In honor of the eight nights of Hanukkah, which is taking place from December 14 to 22, here are some spots around the Mile High City where you can fill up on latkes.
Latke Love
Latke Love out of Littleton serves up latkes in a variety of flavors all year long. Starting at $13 for four crispy potato pancakes,the menu includes “The Classic” with housemade applesauce and cinnamon whipped cream, or sour cream; “The Manhattan” topped with smoked salmon, dill cream, capers, and shaved red onions; the “Rabbi, I’m Confused” with pulled pork drenched in carolina BBQ sauce; among others. They also have blintzes (Jewish crepes) and knishes. To order, call 303-995-9708. 699 W. Littleton Blvd., Littleton, latkelove.com
Red Square Euro Bistro
Latkes are a permanent fixture on Red Square Euro Bistro’s menu, where each plate comes “Russian style” with sour cream and dill. One order comes with four potato pancakes for only $8. Dine in any time, or get some to go by ordering on DoorDash or calling (303) 595-8600. 1512 Larimer St., Denver, redsquarebistro.com
Safta
Taking after the viral food board trend, Safta is offering a Latke Board featuring four latkes with labneh, apple butter, pickled Sumac onions, beet tahini, marinated parsley, whipped hot honey butter, and ikra, which is smoked trout roe mixed with baby herbs. The package is priced at $45 for dine-in, or $50 for takeout. It will be available throughout Hanukkah from December 12 to 22. To order the Latke Board to-go, call 720-408-2444.3330 Brighton Blvd., Denver, eatwithsafta.com
Rosenberg’s
Rosenberg’s will be offering its award-winning potato pancakes (half-dozen for $18) with apple butter and sour cream, as well as sufganiyot ($3 each), which are doughnuts filled with your choice of raspberry, apple butter, lemon curd, or dulce de leche, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Pre-order for Hanukkah items will be available for pickup from December 15 to 22. Place your order online. Multiple locations, rosenbergsbagels.com
The Bagel Deli & Restaurant
Established in 1967, The Bagel Deli has everything you need to cater a Hanukkah celebration from the latkes to the candles. That’s right, the restaurant is selling Hanukkah candles for $2.95 per box. It also has a plethora of other offerings including potato latkes ($2.95 each, $11.95 for a half-dozen, $22.95 for a dozen) with sour cream and apple sauce for an additional charge, gluten-free latkes ($12.95 per half-dozen), matzo ball soup, brisket, cheese blintzes, cookies, challah, chocolate babka, mandelbrot, lox, whitefish salad, and of course, bagels.
If you prefer to dine in-house, the menu includes traditional latkes along with creative spins on the potato pancake like the Latke-rito, which is latkes topped with eggs with chicken, brisket, beef bacon or sausage, potatoes, cheese, and green chile. There’s also the Latke-Dict with pastrami and the restaurant’s take on an eggs Benedict, but with latkes instead of the traditional English muffin. 6439 E. Hampden Ave., Denver, bageldeli.com
Steuben’s
Steuben’s, which just won the Jewish Community Center’s annual latke competition during its first year competing, will be offering its “Steuben’s Style” potato pancakes throughout Hanukkah (Dec. 14-21). Served up with a side of house-made applesauce and sour cream, latkes start at three for $9, six for $18, or 12 for $32. They will be available for dine-in only. This year, Steuben’s is also selling house-made rugelach in an assortment of flavors – chocolate, raspberry, and cinnamon walnut apricot – in 12 ounce bags for $18 523 E. 17th Ave., Denver, steubens.com
Call Your Mother Deli
Available now and until December 24, Call Your Mother has a Salmon, Latke, and Fixin’s Deluxe Platter on its catering menu. The limited-time special comes with gluten-friendly square potato latkes, homemade apple jam, sour cream, horseradish, pickled veggies, and smoked salmon. Place your catering order online.
You’ll also find potato pancakes on the dine-in and take-out menus. The latke platter comes with three potato pancakes, apple jam and sour cream for $7.50. Latkes are also featured in the Mountain View sandwich, which is made with eggs, mashed avocado, American and cheddar cheeses on a plain bagel. Or, add a latke to any dish for $2. Multiple locations, callyourmotherdeli.com
Zaidy’s Deli & Bakery
“There are really two schools of latkes,” said Joel Appel, co-owner of Zaidy’s Deli & Bakery, referring to the hashbrown-esque latkes found at most delis versus the style they make at Zaidy’s, which is closer to an actual pancake. “Our batter includes things like onions, salt, potatoes, a little potato flour, and some love. Then we scoop it onto a griddle, much like a pancake. It’s a very traditional way of making them.”
Zaidy’s offers an entire menu of Hanukkah favorites including a half-dozen ($17) or full dozen ($32) of their pancake-style latkes with strawberry applesauce ($5.50) or sour cream ($6). This year, they are also offering the new Cheezee Latkes ($19 for a half-dozen), which includes a side of green chili. Additional Hanukkah offerings include mixed berry and chocolate caramel sufganiyot (a dozen for $15), a variety of desserts, homemade rugelach, brisket, roasted chicken, potato and noodle kugel, breads, bagels, and more. Place your order online. 600 S. Holly St., Denver, zaidysdeli.com
NY Deli News
This iconic Denver deli serves up latkes year round out of its storefront in Hampden. The restaurant, which first opened in 1989, keeps it straightforward, with a single latke for $4.50 or an order of three for $13.50. Naturally, they come with a side of sour cream and apple sauce. Order online or call (303) 759-4741. 7105 E. Hampden Ave., Denver, nydelinews.com
East Side Kosher Deli
East Side Kosher Deli is much more than a deli, it’s also a restaurant, a grocery store, a butcher shop, and a bakery. The fully kosher-certified joint has been serving the Glendale community for over 30 years and has a hybrid of offerings from traditional Jewish-style deli items to general American diner food to international cuisine (there’s even items like sushi and Korean BBQ wings).
It also has everything you might need for Hanukkah. During the holiday, the store will be dishing out latkes for $2 each. It also sells sour cream and apple sauce, sufganiyot, oil cups, driedles, and gelt. Customers can pick up latkes from the deli counter, or pre-order by emailing orders@eastsidekosherdeli.com. 499 S. Elm St., Denver, eastsidekosherdeli.com
