After the heartbreak of Noisette’s closure last summer, LoHi is ready for a new romance. Once precious and sophisticated, the space now has an entirely different personality thanks to the opening of Velvet Lasso. Yes, it’s a little kitschy, but the cafe wears it with confidence, which we love.
Owner Bree Licata describes the vibe as “femme spaghetti Western,” a nod to Italian filmmakers’ interest in cowboy tropes back in the 1960s. But nostalgia extends beyond the antique decor, at least for the leading duo behind the concept.
Licata and Cole Sinatra, head chef and general manager, grew up in Italian families. The pastry case is stocked with the rainbow cookies, cannolis, and savory comforts that remind them of home. Soon, small plates will be served within the adjacent lounge, set to open in April. For now, Velvet Lasso invites guests to come as they are and stay a while, and we reckon we will.
New to Town
Raised in an Italian community on Long Island, Licata spent her early years frequenting big city cafes and honing her baking skills. She attended culinary school in New York before relocating to Portland, where she opened a cafe called Flour Bloom. There, she met Sinatra.
Sinatra, who grew up farming in rural Idaho, had a starkly different upbringing. Childhood 4-H competitions led to studies in agriculture education. But when they came out as queer, Sinatra sought safety and support, which they found in Portland’s culinary community.
Not that it was their first entry into the field. Sinatra’s career also involved working with acclaimed kitchens abroad in Europe, as well as those in San Francisco and Steamboat Springs. Before it shuttered, they even had a short stint at Fruition. However, after an epilepsy diagnosis they needed to pivot.
“When you get really involved in fine dining, you get afraid to have things going on with you because you don’t know how it’s going to affect your career,” said Sinatra.
Though first a boss, Licata became an understanding friend. When she decided to close Flour Bloom and leave Portland, Sinatra readily packed up their bags, too.
“It felt serendipitous that we all wanted to move here,” said Licata. She had been to Denver several times before to visit her now-husband, and recalled enjoying the city, as did Sinatra. But the LoHi neighborhood, specifically, fell into their lucky hands.
The Cafe and Lounge
Between April and September last year, Licata and Sinatra toured roughly 30 spaces across the metro area, searching for the perfect layout. They wanted a place that could house both a daytime cafe and a separate evening lounge, without requiring major construction.
Then, before the former Noisette space was even listed publicly, their broker got them in for a tour. “We really lucked out, being some of the first people to get in here,” commented Sinatra. Once papers were signed, the duo began to design the cafe.
The pastry case is front and center, and to the right of the doorway, a humming refrigerator keeps sodas cold. But most guests order items from the large menu on the wall. Its Western typeface complements the rest of the decor: vintage upholstery, state fair ribbons, and art with a mustang motif. The chandeliers, with shades shaped like poppies, tie it all together.
Rather than stark and minimalist, Licata wanted Velvet Lasso to feel homey and encourage people to linger. Currently, seating is limited to around fifteen guests. But soon, the lounge will provide overflow space in the daytime, followed by evening service.
The ambiance will be cohesive to the cafe, but more dark and sultry, with a DJ booth and a cocktail bar along the back wall. When the lounge opens, guests will be able to order small plates, steak frites, and the classic girl dinner: fries, Caesar salad, and a dirty martini combo.
Sundays will be reserved for special events, and those who Sinatra describes as living “the kitchen pirate life.” Expect pop-ups from local chefs, line cooks, and bakers, along with other fun happenings. But even now, with just its cafe, Velvet Lasso provides plenty of flavorful reasons to visit.
Bites and Beverages
“We’re always looking to make flavor profiles that feel like home,” said Licata. Cannolis and rainbow cookies are obvious tributes to the duo’s Italian upbringing, but there are unexpected collaborations, too.
For example, the Wagyu hot dog pastry features a housemade onion sauce inspired by the Sabrett brand’s condiment, which is commonly seen at NYC hot dog stands. Meanwhile, Sinatra’s dad works with Snake River Farms in Idaho, the continent’s largest producer of American wagyu beef.
Sinatra affirmed, “It’s like a clash of our two households…”
“…inside of a croissant,” continued Licata, completing the sentence. It’s apparent the two are in total sync.
The staff at Velvet Lasso is also on the same page. This includes pastry chef Wynter Sierra, whose resume features the popular GetRight’s and other top bakeries. Within the framework provided to her, she crafts a rotating selection of sweet and savory goods.
Pop tarts often sell out, while the guava and cream cheese Danish goes under the radar, but should not be missed. Wrapped into a buttery lattice, the ham and cheese pastry is another standout made with River Bear meats, gooey Gruyère, and a mustardy béchamel spread, plus a cornichon speared on top.
Beyond the pastries, local grains from Dry Storage anchor the cafe’s bread program. Take note of the $12 Hungry, Hungry Cowfolk breakfast sando served on a housebaked Kaiser roll, as well as the $18 Hangover Hoagie which turns a chicken Caesar salad into a handheld meal.
When it comes to the beverage menu, the Working Girl Brew ($8) has been a guest favorite, featuring nitro cold brew, a house cola syrup, and tiramisu cold foam. Need to limit your mid-day caffeine? Get the Shortstack Dream, a decadent matcha latte with a salted-maple sweetener and a thick and creamy roasted-banana cold foam. But this is just a sampling, head to the cafe now to get a real sense of the magic Sinatra and Licata have created.
Visit Velvet Lasso between Thursday and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Come April, the cafe will operate daily and the lounge will be open on Friday through Sunday evenings. 3254 Navajo St., Denver, thevelvetlasso.com
