Combining the talents and travels of chefs Harrison Porter and Rema Maaliki, expect BearLeek to open at the end of the month with a globally-influenced barrage of seasonal dishes in the revamped basement spot that formally housed Osaka Ramen in RiNo.
“As far as the style of the restaurant, it’s an extension of us, and inviting people into our home is the baseline,” said Porter, who has cooked in New York City, Peru, Melbourne, and locally at Alma Fonda Fina, Brassiere Brixton, and Mercantile. “We can’t wait to get some people in here and share our experiences.”
The name BearLeek comes from the German term bärlauch, which means ramp or bear garlic. For Porter the word represents not only the seasonality of food, but rebirth (ramps are one of the first foods to herald in spring), new possibilities, and the endless inspiration a single ingredient has to offer.
But don’t misread the title, while a ramp might be a little esoteric to some diners, the chefs plan to keep the mood and menu light and approachable for all. Porter even pokes fun at the moniker and has a loose gummy bear theme throughout, including a butter bear to go with the bread, a dessert made to look like a giant gummy bear, and a little gummy bear mignardise to wrap things up.
“We are going to cook what we feel like and what sounds good and what ingredients are on hand,” said Maaliki, who has also cooked all over the world and teamed up with Porter to open BearLeek. “Over time we will develop some fan favorites, but we plan to change [the menu] frequently.”
On the opening menu you can expect to sample dishes such as chive and potato filled perogies with brown butter, Koji Fried Chicken with fennel and a green sichuan and orange beurre blanc, and chicken liver mousse in a tartlet, a remnant of Porter and Maaliki’s time at Brasserie Brixton. Expect to also see nods to Maaliki’s Lebanese and Palestinian heritage in the Tuna Crudo, which features labneh, fresh peas, lemon-mint vinaigrette, and sesame ponzu.
The restaurant, located in a basement, will have a dark, cool atmosphere with neon accents and an open kitchen. The team worked with restaurant design professional Kevin Nguyen of Regular Architecture to create the intimate space.
“We are in a basement, so why fight it,” said Porter. “First thing we did was paint these walls, so it’s even darker now. And, since it reminded Rema and I of Melbourne and the graffiti everywhere, we have a bunch of tags coming from outside in. It’s like bringing the rest of RiNo inside with us.”
The structure of the small space remains similar to its former tenant, with a long dining area flanking the kitchen and front seating.
“The coolest part about Osaka was the open kitchen, and you can see everything we are doing,” added Porter. “It creates an intimate experience where you can interact with your guests and you can feel like you’re part of it more.”
On the drink side, beverage director Carlos Hugo Meza oversees the cocktail program, which includes 10 signature tipples. We can’t wait to try the Chai-infused whiskey-based drink, Pretty Fly for a Chai Guy, which utilizes tea from local stalwart Celestial Seasonings. Meza has also created a black garlic old-fashioned we’re eager to try, as well as other crafted cocktails featuring local and seasonal ingredients.
So far the planned opening date is July 30, permits pending. Once open, visit BearLeek at 2611 Walnut St. in Denver.
