It’s a sunny afternoon in Denver and happy hour is calling. Inside The Regular, a jewel-toned bar is dramatic and inviting, cloaked in opulent layers of fabric and finishes. Killer Queen plays over the speakers and the senses signal a transition from workday hustle to a culinary escapade.
Aromas of spice and roasting meats waft from the kitchen, the club chair in the bar is dangerously comfortable, and the swirling scene of Market Street seems a world away. Inside, the eye has plenty to explore. Drinking in the dramatic interior, it takes a moment to realize you’re sitting in the reimagined space once home to Maloney’s Tavern in the heart of Lower Downtown Denver.
The place has come a long way from the late-night bar scene.
Proprietors Syd Younggreen and Chef Brian de Souza have transformed 1432 Market St. into a sophisticated sanctuary where beauty is found far beyond the facade. With vast imagination and drive as apparent in their cuisine as it is in the two-year transformation of the space. The pair deliver what their fans can’t get enough of from them, world-class hospitality, originality, and flavor. These are the ingredients that earned them notoriety starting with their exclusive pop-up series known as The Guest in Boulder, and paved the way to the haven that is The Regular.
In-House or At Home, a LoDo Hub for Fine Wine
Following a warm welcome from the host, a call for sparkling wine is appropriate. With bubbles on the lips, a step into the adjacent space aptly named The Cellar reveals rows of wine bottles available for retail purchase. Freddy Mercury is doing his thing over the speakers, and the energy throughout the building is inviting and inquisitive. You’re teed up for an experience that’s anything but ordinary.
From the retail spread to the cohesive list, The Regular’s wine program highlights producers who are stewards of terroir, style, and quality. The approach requires a double take when making your selection since the names and varieties may be unfamiliar. It’s a game of “if you like this, try that.” The wine offerings hit the key style categories, so there’s something by the glass for every wine lover, even if they don’t realize it at first glance.
Biodynamic, organic, and otherwise sustainable wines dominate the list, offering styles that, while beloved, are far from mainstream. The Regular is the place to experiment and expand your palate, whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or just someone who enjoys a good glass of wine.
Expression Through Gastronomy
The cuisine at The Regular is as dynamic as the wine program. Chef Owner de Souza, whose Peruvian roots infuse his culinary creations, brings an incredible depth of flavor and artistry to every dish. Yet, this is not a Peruvian restaurant. Instead, it’s a testament to the idea that people—and by extension, cuisine—can be more than one thing without losing focus.
Dining at The Regular makes one thing abundantly clear: Chef de Souza is a details guy. He has an uncompromising passion for seafood, spices, and sauces, and it shows in every plate that leaves his kitchen. The dishes are as visually stunning as they are delicious, each one a work of art.
Mastery in Food and Wine Pairing
Chenin Blanc from Anjou, the sea, and spice were the threads connecting a tasting trio of small plates. Oyster with parsley, thyme, and pickled shallot and a dish of confit mussel with jalapeño emulsion, cancha, choclo, and chalaquita were presented cold while a warm bite of Papa a la Huancaina with Kalamata olive and escabeche offered earthen flavors and aromas.
The next pairing didn’t begin and end on the palate. It started as soon as the scent of the chef’s scallop on the half shell with gratinéed cheese and chipotle broth hit the table. Before tasting, a deep inhale of the bouquet of the skin contact white blend from Fil·loxera & Cía winery in Valencia, Spain brought on a sigh. These pairings delight the palate and introduce a new way of experiencing food and wine, transcribing the act of dining to lasting memory.
The half Pekin duck with cilantro risotto, huancaina, and chalaquita came next. Served medium rare alongside a Lemberger from Kiona Winery, the combination underscores this notion of the rewards we reap when embracing the . It’s a pairing that elevates both the food and the wine, creating a symphony of flavors that linger long after the meal is over.
In a city that’s constantly evolving, The Regular stands out by staying true to its roots while daring to be different. Whether you’re in for a glass of wine or a full dining experience, you’ll leave knowing you’ve encountered something special in the Denver dining scene.
Visit The Regular Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday from 4:30 to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 4:30 to 10 p.m. 1432 Market St., Denver, theregulardenver.com
