If you’ve ever wondered what those tiny wine glasses lining the bar at your local Italian joint were, ponder no longer. These adorable vessels often hold amaro, an herbal aperitivo popular in Italy. There, enjoying amaro is more of a ritual than merely a drink. The intense liqueur should be sipped as one lingers after a meal, letting the beverage’s complex flavors settle the stomach and, as many believe, aid digestion.
Today, amaro, or amari when plural, has gained popularity far beyond Italy. In Denver several restaurants have curated impressive collections featuring both Italian classics and creative renditions from around the world, as well as exclusive homemade versions.
What Is Amaro
Each amaro presents a unique blend, typically made by infusing a neutral spirit, grape brandy, or wine. The ingredients vary, with herbs, citrus peels, flowers, spices, and other botanicals showcase in the flavor. The base of amaro finds balance with sugar and further refinement by aging. Amari styles range from intensely medicinal to bright and fruity, but all share a harmony of bitterness and sweetness, fitting, as the word “amaro” itself means “bitter” in Italian.
Originally created as health tonics, today amari are often sipped chilled and neat, or used in cocktails to add depth and complexity. For an unforgettable introduction to amari in Denver, two restaurants stand out. We’re talking about Coperta and Spuntino, each with a distinct take on this Italian tradition.
Flight To the Bitter End
Coperta, located in Uptown, offers an impressive selection of more than 25 amari. Most are Italian, with a few New World options in the mix. If you’re new to the category, or as executive chef and co-owner Paul C. Reilly calls it, “amaro-curious,” the $20 amari flight at the bar is a perfect introduction. You’ll experience a range of styles from various regions, including Sicily’s citrus-forward Amara, crafted in blood orange groves. Stop in for a bite and let Reilly and his team guide you through the complex world of amari. 400 E. 20th Ave., Denver, copertadenver.com
Old New, and Everything In Between
Over in the Highlands, Spuntino takes its amaro obsession seriously. The cocktail menu has an entire section devoted to this category, showcasing both an extensive selection of amari and housemade versions crafted by co-owner Elliot Strathmann. Begin your meal with The House of Tom Bombadil, a bright mix of Family Jones Gin, Spuntino’s saffron liqueur, citrus, soda, and their ‘Antico’ Amaro. After dinner, finish with a sip of their housemade ‘Veda’ amaro, a blend featuring Indian spices for a floral, complex, and unforgettable finish.
For an even more exclusive experience, catch owner Strathmann behind the bar and you might get to sample some of his rare vintage amari. And don’t forget to pair it with one of the decadent chocolate truffles. As one may suspect, the treat is infused, of course, with amaro. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., Denver, spuntinodenver.com
