Something about grabbing happy hour in the city’s hub of transportation gives the event a European feeling, and at Ultreia the vibe intensifies thanks to its Spanish sensibilities. Chef Jen Jasinski and Beth Gruitch opened their Union Station bistro in December, 2017, under their Crafted Concepts brand, with chef Adam Branz at the helm.
Today Ultreia is overseen by Branz, but the same idea of serving Spanish, especially Basque-inspired, small plates remains. It’s one of the prettiest places downtown to dine, whether finishing work for the day, waiting for your train, or simply galavanteing around. Of course happy hour is the real deal, and it’s served every day.
The Food
The dishes Branz whips up can transport diners to a cafe in Spain, be that on a bustling street in Madrid or tucked away in Barcelona. Tapas is the correct term, or in the case of this happy hour, Pinche Pintxos. Yes, the first word technically translates to naughty things, but pintxos means small bite.
On the special menu find two distinct categories, On Bread and On a Pick. For the former, the line up includes delicate, sandwich-like bites for $6 each. For example, Bikini, a speck and honey combo. Crab Salad features a sprinkling of Old Bay seasoning, and the Chistorra includes cider-braised chorizo and a dollop of Dijon mustard. Vegetarians can enjoy the Cana de Cabra, a goat cheese, piquillo pepper, and hot honey bite.
As for the On a Pick section, the Gilda ($6) was recently one of our favorite monthly bites, and tells the story of the silver screen. Just as dazzling is Gambas ($8), a crispy shrimp plate topped with salsa rosa, and is a smaller version of the dinner tapas.
Many of the dishes off the happy hour menu are only available then, such as the Berenjenas ($6), an addictive crispy eggplant with sesame and honey. Don’t skip the Chorrera ($6) either, it’s the perfect deviled egg and comes topped with crispy jamón serrano. The restaurant also offers a rotating Fishwife tinned fish for $20 during pinche pintxos, which is less than any of the regularly priced ones listed on the lunch and dinner menu.
The Drinks
It’s always a good time to stop into Ultreia for a glass of wine or goblet filled with gin and tonic, no matter if you’re sidled up to the bar or seated outside. The vibe remains just as cool during happy hour, but the prices are a real steal. For $7 order a glass of wine, be that red, white, rosé, or sparkling.
Also for $7 one can get the housemade sangria or a classic gin and tonic. If you notice a small fountain bubbling with red liquid then that means you found the Ford’s Gin Negroni station, and for $5 the bartender will pour a glass of it for you. A dram of vermouth and a rotating beer also run $5. Mix and match, or stay the course, either way these drinks give one the sense of a serene Spanish afternoon, enjoying the senses.
The Details
Pinche Pintxos runs daily from 3 to 6 p.m. During this time there’s a specific happy hour menu to choose from, which can be enjoyed inside, outside, or at the bar. Though, for prime Negroni fountain action, the bar is the place to be. 1701 Wynkoop St., Denver, ultreiadenver.com
