Though Mar Bella Boqueria deviates from chef Johnny Curiel’s usual refined Mexican food concepts like Denver’s Alma Fonda Fina and Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, he and his wife and partner Kasie have always wanted to lean into the food and drinks of Spain.
“Kasie and I visited Spain, and fell in love with the food and the Spanish culture,” said Curiel on the phone. “I have always had a calling to Spanish food and always wanted to do it in the best way possible.”
In fact, what is now Mezcalria Alma was going to be the Curiels’ Spanish restaurant. But something about it didn’t quite fit, and the couple felt they needed the mezcaleria to be next to Alma Fonda Fina. Based on accolades and Michelin-star it earned, they chose correctly.
However, the chef never stopped looking for a spot to launch Mar Bella Boqueria. But as the year went on he opened Alteño next, right inside the Clayton Hotel & Members Club. Turns out that move helped bring his Spanish concept into fruition.
Across the lobby of the hotel stood another restaurant and bar space housing the Italian concept Amorina. Then, a few months ago, the owner of the property approached the Curiels about taking it over. They weren’t expecting to open another restaurant at the time, but the bar, vibe, and proximity to Alteño proved too serendipitous to pass up. As soon as they stepped in the Curiels knew it was meant to be theirs.
Another way the new Mar Bella Boqueria fits into the Fonda Fina Hospitality family comes from its lack of a hood in the kitchen. It’s the third spot, out of five, that doesn’t have one. Luckily the chef knows how to make magic without that important kitchen tool, in fact, the other two restaurants with the same issue both earned Michelin stars.
“This is one of those concepts I was the most self conscious about, and I would never want to do a cuisine not 100% traditional,” said the chef, adding he tends to lean into his Mexican traditions and wants to put lime and chili in most dishes. “It was hard and amazing, I didn’t want to cook not 100% Spanish, and it was hard to get away from Mexican food.”
Staying true to his goals, the menu features a solid list of Spanish cheeses and cured meats including the classic, hand-cut jamón Iberico. These will be served with an array of sides such as marinated olives, pan con tomate, guindillas, and more. Diners will also find traditional tapas such as patatas bravas, Spanish tortilla, shrimp with lemon and Chiquilin pepper, and Croquetas De Jaiba, composed of Maine blue crab, piquillo mayo, Mahón cheese, and tuna.
The chef also took on seafood conservas, all made in house, which take the place of classic canned fish found at many other Spanish restaurants. On the large-format menu, plates include Lubina A La Plancha, a seared sea bass with anchovy butter and butter beans; and Lechon Con Papa, a hearth-roasted suckling pig served with truffled potato and sherry jus. On the drink side, the wine list features plenty of Spanish vino, and diners can also expect to try a line up of sherries and drinks from the gin and tonic cart.
While most of the intimate, sexy space will serve food a la carte, each night a handful of diners can also book the chef’s counter. Here you’ll get the first tasting menu Curiel has ever offered at any of his ventures, inspired by one of the chef’s favorite Barcelona restaurants, Cal Pep. Here, he explained, there’s no menu, only what the chefs want to serve based on the season and freshness of ingredients. It’s worked there for decades, and who knows, maybe in 30 years Mar Bella Boqueria can say the same.
Officially Mar Bella Boqueria opens on Saturday, January 10. 233 Clayton St., Denver, marbellaboqueria.com
