Back when the United States was celebrating its bicentennial, finding fresh seafood in landlocked Dallas wasn’t commonplace, but Herb and Mary Kay Story had a plan to fix that. While serving as a Navy fighter pilot for six years on the Gulf Coast, Mr. Story grew to love fresh seafood, so when he couldn’t find a good place to satisfy his cravings back in Dallas, he and his wife decided to take matters into their own hands.
After securing the space at 2701 McKinney Ave., inside a brick building dating back to 1891, the couple opened S&D Oyster Company on September 16, 1976, naming their new restaurant after their two children at the time, Stephanie and Doak. (Son Charlie would arrive a year later, but by then the restaurant already had its name.)
Customers discovered a variety of the freshest Gulf seafood available on the menu, which featured old family recipes, plus new ones based on Mrs. Story’s close observations of Louisiana cooks while on duck-hunting expeditions with her husband. To this day, a distinctly New Orleans vibe permeates the space, from the simple dining room with penny tile floors to the tranquil tree-lined courtyard and Caché, the hidden bar upstairs.
Though the Story family sold the beloved restaurant in 2023 to the Bellomy Group (brothers Ryan, Sean, and Beau), the Dallas institution’s legacy lives on. Few things have changed, especially the familiar faces of devoted staff members, many of whom have been with the restaurant for more than three decades. Or longer.
“I am in my 32nd year at S&D Oyster Company, still a rookie compared to chef,” jokes general manager Therese Washington..
In fact, two employees have been with the restaurant since Day One: Santos Vasquez, head chef, and Fortino Calzada, who started as a prep cook and now buses tables because he finds it more relaxing after decades in the hot kitchen. Their photos are framed on the back wall of the main room, as the longest-tenured crew members, each with 50 years of service.
Following close behind is server Pepe Bello, who started in the kitchen in 1983, temporarily retired a couple of times, then quickly came back to the comparative fun of the restaurant’s always-packed house. The list of longtime employees goes on and on, a sign that S&D Oyster Company is as great a place to work as it is to eat.
“We consider it a privilege to show up every day and continue to be part of the tradition of so many families. Maybe more than ever, people are craving an authentic experience with real people who care,” says Washington. “We are not a corporate, nameless, faceless entity with a set script for every guest. We are here to take care of you, and we are honored for the opportunity.”
According to Washington, the food has always been consistent and true to the restaurant’s identity.
“We serve simple, wild-caught seafood in dishes made from scratch. We’ve been doing that long before ‘wild caught’ and ‘made from scratch’ were trendy,” she says. “We believe that elevated, great service does not need to be fussy. We want folks to feel welcomed and relaxed.”
This consistent approach to treating every guest as they would guests in their own homes has been S&D’s guiding principle.
In addition to the namesake oysters on the half shell, Washington says the most popular thing on the menu is still the wild-caught, fried Gulf shrimp. Served with Creole rice and hushpuppies, the crispy battered shrimp can be devoured in quantities of five or 10 per order.
“Our lobster roll and new blackened shrimp Caesar salad have also been immediate hits,” Washington says. “People love our oysters and the cocktail sauce made tableside, and we have expanded our menu to include East Coast varieties, which have been a fun addition.”
If you’ve never been to S&D Oyster Company, Washington recommends getting a table in the courtyard, starting with a signature cocktail and a couple of East Coast oysters.
“It is so rare to have an outdoor dining space that doesn’t overlook concrete or a parking lot. You can really feel like you’re a million miles away from the city,” she says. “The Bevolo gas lanterns and the fountain are such a vibe.”
Follow your first course with a cup of seafood gumbo, made with shrimp, oysters, fish, okra, tomatoes, and spices. Then, try the blackened fresh red snapper and a couple of fried shrimp à la carte. “Because you just have to!” she says.
Finish the meal, if you still have room, with lemon meringue pie that the chef bakes at 5:30 each and every morning.
Offering guests the best seafood comes easily, thanks to relationships built over decades.
“We’ve been able to source great seafood for 50 years because we’re spoiled in the best way. We’ve built long-standing relationships with vendors, many of which span all five decades. When natural disasters or other issues cause supply shortages, we are always taken care of, and we don’t take that for granted,” she says. “We’ve also built some new vendor relationships, thanks to the Bellomys. This helped in expanding our menu beyond the Gulf to include East Coast oysters and lobster rolls.”
One of the biggest changes implemented by the Bellomys is the opening of Caché, a “secret” upstairs bar that debuted a year ago.
Sneak up the staircase to the cozy space with a roaring fireplace that transports your senses right to the type of tiny bar tucked away on a side street of the French Quarter. Order a classic cocktail, perhaps a Vieux Carré or a Pandan Painkiller. Peruse the menu of small, shareable plates, including oysters (naturally), charcuterie, beef carpaccio, tuna crudo, and caviar service with blinis and potato chips.
“In one building, you can have two separate, amazing experiences. Start in Caché for cocktails and bites, then head downstairs for dinner,” she says. Or vice versa.
There’s no time like Wednesday, September 16, to visit, either. That’s the official 50th birthday, and S&D will be shucking 50¢ oysters all day, plus all alcoholic beverages will be 50% off.
Limited edition 50th birthday merch, including t-shirts, caps, and glassware, will be priced at a symbolic $19.76 all week long in honor of the founding year, as well as half-price draft beer. Guests will also have the chance to fill out cards at every table to share their favorite memories, traditions, or experiences at S&D over the years.
“The handwritten notes are going to become part of a commemorative book celebrating the first 50 years of the restaurant and the guests that have made it so special. There is also an option to upload photos via a QR code,” Washington says.
By the weekend, things ramp up for another big celebration on Saturday, September 19 with music from the Reveler’s Hall Band from noon to 3 p.m. and again from 6 to 9 p.m.
Washington, for one, can’t wait to party with regulars and newbies alike.
“It is such a privilege to hear stories every day of folks who have made S&D part of their story. Connection matters, and we feel that connection with our guests.”
S&D Oyster Company, 2701 McKinney Ave., Dallas, sdoyster.com
