Imagine stepping into a bakery where, just outside in the shade, two of Dallas’ powerhouse restaurateurs sip coffee together. Inside, a Parisian Michelin-lauded chef experiments with a gelato machine as a La Marzocco espresso bar hums nearby. Across the room, a Michelin Exceptional Cocktails award winner approaches coffee with the same meticulous, almost scientific precision he brings to his drinks. This month, the team behind Dallas’ history-making Mamani turned that scene into reality.
The Bread Club, from Feels Like Home hospitality group, opened on March 9 at the Quad in Uptown. Located at 2681 Howell Street, it is the first bakery in Dallas to mill Texas-grown grains in house.
“The difference between good and great is always in the details,” says Peter Edris, baking director at Feels Like Home, in a release. “That’s why we mill our own flour from interesting locally grown grains, give our doughs a long, slow ferment and build each sandwich on the bread we create expressly for that particular sandwich. It’s also why we look to far-flung cultures for inspiration, for the pastries as well as the sandwiches.”
Helmed by brothers Brandon and Henry Cohanim, Feels Like Home operates with exacting standards. The team earned a Michelin star for its modern European restaurant Mamani just 48 days after opening. The secret lies in the Cohanim brothers’ knack for recruiting exceptional talent, including culinary director Christophe de Lellis, formerly of Las Vegas’ Joël Robuchon, and bar director Rubén Rolón.
The brothers tapped Edris, whose deep understanding of farm-to-table cooking traces back to his childhood on a Pennsylvania chicken farm. His résumé reflects a longstanding passion for French cuisine and pastry, along with a deep devotion to bread—one that has taken him across the country educating bakers and developing acclaimed bread programs at Aureole and Tribeca’s Frenchette Bakery.
In Dallas, Edris quietly ran the bread program at Mamani as preparations for the Bread Club got underway. It did not take long for Texas to influence his craft.
“I was definitely influenced by the high profile of corn in Texas,” Edris tells DiningOut. “I also wanted to offer more American-style items showcasing whole grains, such as muffins and simple cakes, rather than only bread.”
At the 2,600-square-foot bakery, European craftsmanship meets Texas grain, resulting in true artisan breads. Texas-grown and heirloom grains are stone-milled on-site to produce baguettes; Texas corn pugliese made with twice-fermented corn and wheat; Texas country and sprouted quinoa loaves made with state-grown wheat; and Milanese enriched with saffron, Parmesan, and crispy rice. The breads are baked in a state-of-the-art Italian Bassanina electric oven, allowing the kitchen to produce bread and pastry simultaneously.
That same attention to technique carries into the Bread Club’s viennoiserie program. Using a dough sheeter, the team spotlights laminated pastry—where butter is folded into thin layers to create airy, flaky textures. The croissant features 81 layers. “Most laminated product is better with 81 layers, as it is more defined,” Edris says.
That same standard applies to pastries like the pistachio pain Suisse and sausage rolls—a Texas-inspired item that sold out on opening day. Danishes are crafted with 48 layers, while other pastries feature 36.
The sandwich menu follows suit, offering a global perspective. The jambon beurre delivers a classic taste of France, while the pesto salame rosa is built on Milanese bread inspired by Italian risotto. For breakfast, the sandwich begins with a Mexican torta bun.
The Bread Club’s beverage program reflects Rolón’s cocktail-driven approach, with drinks that balance precision and creativity. Standouts include housemade madeleine horchata, pistachio cream top, piña colada matcha, berry matcha, and tamarind cold brew tonic. Matcha is sourced from a small farm in Uji, Japan.
Espresso offerings are powered by Nicaraguan Coperaco Reserve beans, grown on protected land and introduced to the Bread Club by chef De Lellis.
Beyond the bakery and café, the neighborhood spot extends into a thoughtfully curated provisions shop, stocked with standout pantry staples like Sal de Ibiza fleur de sel, La Curiosa tinned fish, Alan Milliat jams, Buddy Buddy seasonal butters, and Good Girl Snacks’ Hot Girl Pickles.
A small but intentional wine selection, chosen by Brandon Cohanim, includes grower Champagne and Spanish Garnacha, with more to come. Feels Like Home’s new wine director, Josh Ponthieux, is set to debut a broader program soon, including approachable bottles priced under $30.
The Uptown arrival feels less like a debut and more like an institution that’s always belonged, drawing lines out the door from day one. Come for a bottle of wine, a scoop of gelato, or a perfectly laminated croissant—but don’t be surprised if you stay awhile.
The Bread Club, 2681 Howell St., Dallas, thebreadclub.com
