It’s not every day a chef has worked at the same restaurant for over two decades. But for Darrel Truett of Barolo Grill in Cherry Creek, he’s enjoyed every year he’s been there.
“The main reason that’s kept me there is the Italy trips,” explained Truett, referring to the yearly jaunts to Europe to learn, taste, and experience the cuisine there. “Year after year, it’s the inspiration and the people we meet. We are constantly evolving and learning. I still don’t know everything and after 20 years I still learn something new each time.”
When Truett entered the Italian restaurant in November, 2004, he started at the pasta station. He stayed there for years before moving to the grill, and then on to sous chef. Three years after that, Truett became executive chef, a role he’s held onto for about 15 years.
But long before Barolo Grill, at the age of 16, Truett started his restaurant career doing dishes at a steakhouse in Greeley.
“From the dish pit I could always look over and see the cooks on the line, hustling and bustling to get the food out,” said the chef. “They saw my interest, and let me have a shot after a year. I was hooked.”
Truett stayed at the steakhouse throughout high school, and then went on to culinary school at then-new Johnson & Wales University in Denver (it’s now closed). There he learned all the basics and how to make mother sauces and stocks. He took an externship at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, which gave him a taste of elevated dining.
A Yearly Pilgrimage to Piedmont
The visits to Italy have been important both Truett and owner Ryan Fletter, who continued the trend after he bought the 30-year-old restaurant from previous owner Blair Taylor in 2015. Truett’s first trip happened his first summer working there, and the experience, he said, was eye opening.
Now, he runs the adventures for his own team, hoping to give them a glimpse of the wonder he felt. The group starts or ends in Piedmont, both for white truffle season and because it’s the inspiration behind Barolo Grill.
“It is work and they are intense trips,” explained the chef. “We are hitting maybe three wineries a day, have a big lunch and a big dinner and it’s go, go, go.”
On the Menu at Barolo Grill
On any given night diners can expect high-end service matched with beautifully plated dishes and stunning glasses of wine. The food menu centers on pasta, proteins, and classic share plates such as fritto misto and caprese salad.
“Overall it’s Piedmont and Italian cuisine, which has been around for so long and is one of the original great cuisines of the world,” said Truett. “As far as the food [at Barolo Grill], it’s still inspired by our trip to Italy and keeping things seasonal.”
Each dish gets the local produce touch. For example, off the summer menu the Crudo di Ricciola comes with ripe melon and cucumber granita. The aforementioned caprese uses peak season heirloom tomatoes from Colorado; and the pork tenderloin comes with grilled fennel and Palisade peach puree.
Diners have the option to order food a la carte, or take advantage of the four-course prix fixe for $95. The menu also sports a wine pairing for each dish, which makes choosing easy and stress free. Of course, the sommelier is happy to help you as well as curate an optional wine pairing for $69 or $95.
The Chef Takeover
We’re hoping Truett will share quality time with his 9-year-old German Shepard, Remy, who was named after the mouse hero in the animated film Ratatouille. As for the rest of his family, the chef said usually his wife and daughter are long gone by the time he gets moving. After puttering around the garden Truett will head out to the restaurant to greet the morning crew.
“They have been there as long as I have, so I have to give them credit,” said Truett. “It’s kind of cool how, over the last 20 years, things have evolved and the place keeps progressing to the next chapter.”
Truett plans to showcase the ins and outs of Barolo Grill, from the staff to the kitchen to the food coming off the line. Also expect a glimpse into the restaurant’s award-winning wine program, which compliments the food perfectly.
Get a taste of Barolo Grill yourself by snagging a $100 gift card. All you have to do is follow the chef as he posts on our Instagram stories, like the static post on the feed, comment, and follow both DiningOut Denver and Barolo Grill on social media. The winner will be announced next week.
Visit Barolo Grill Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 9:30 p.m. It’s closed Sunday and Monday. 3030 E. 6th Ave., Denver, barologrilldenver.com
