Mexico meets Texas in scrumptious plates of barbecue at chef Manny Barella’s new project, Riot BBQ, launching June 5. Barella opens the restaurant in the former AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q spot, along with the eatery’s former pitmaster, Patrick Klaiber.
Barella, who headed the now shuttered Bellota in the Source, is well known after his stint on Top Chef Season 21. Now the chef takes the reins on his own spot, paying homage to his hometown in Monterrey, Mexico by showcasing Mexican grilling and barbecue traditions alongside the techniques of Texas-style barbecue.
“In Monterrey, barbecue isn’t a trend, it’s a tradition passed down through generations,” said Barella in a press release. “It’s how we come together on Sundays, how we celebrate milestones, and how we stay connected to our roots. Every fire tells a story. Riot BBQ is my way of honoring those stories while telling my own.”
On the other side of Riot BBQ there’s Klaiber. Now, if the name AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q sounds familiar it should be. What started as a Michelin-recommended restaurant took a turn in March when it was seized by the state for not paying taxes. The owners of AJ’s allegedly skipped town to Mexico without compensating their employees. Klaiber and Barella took advantage of the closing and bid on the space and equipment, scoring it in April.
Klaiber brings a solid skill at the pit to the table. After all, he started learning the craft of barbecue at the age of 16, and has since made a name for himself as a pitmaster dedicated to the products and the process.
“Barbecue is honest,” added Klaiber in a statement. “It’s about fire, patience, and integrity. You don’t rush it, you honor it.”
Make sure to check out the beef brisket, a dish focused on Klaiber’s solid recipe with heat added from Barella’s own spice rub. Try it solo or in taco form, which comes on Raquelitas Tortillas’ bison tallow tortillas. The pulled pork comes in sauce infused with ancho, guajillo, and morita peppers, and the smoked pork ribs are done al pastor style.
The chef has also created a macha slaw using pepitas, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, and chilies. Also on the classic side, the pitmaster has made sure his signature banana pudding remains, served in individual portions.
As for the name, Riot BBQ tips a hat to the 1898 barbecue riot in Denver, which happened when the city hosted a giant public barbecue. The event drew tens of thousands of people, and the city wasn’t prepared for the turn out. The meat ran out early, and chaos ensued. But worry not, despite the name there will be no melee at this Rosedale spot, there’s plenty of opportunities for everyone to try the meats.
To celebrate the opening, head to Riot BBQ’s Grand Opening Party on June 7 from 12 to 2 p.m. Enjoy music by bluegrass band David Tiller and Friends while checking out the newest barbecue joint in town. 2180 S. Delaware St., riotbbqcompany.com
