Some of the best dry-aged fish in Denver comes thanks to chef Min Koo Lee, who oversees the program at Sushi by SYC. For him, processing seafood this way changes everything.
“Right now we are aging our tuna and salmon and yellowtail. It takes the moisture out from the fish and gives it a better texture and flavor,” said Lee, who recently moved back to Colorado to take the role at Sushi by SYC. The chef trained at celebrated chef Masa Takayama’s restaurants and worked at the now closed Tetsu by Masa in New York City. He knows his seafood, and ages the aforementioned fish for about a week before turning it into temaki, nigiri, and sashimi.
When Sushi by SYC opened a year ago, it added to owner Shuang “Sherry” Crossland’s mini empire of Asian restaurants in the area. Crossland started cultivating these restaurants in 2007, and has grown her Once Concept Restaurant Group into the double digits. The line up includes the all-you-can-eat Chubby Fish Sushi in Thornton; Mikaku Temaki and Ramen in Aurora; Denver’s Kung Fu Tea; the Chinese restaurant Miya Moon, which has locations in Broomfield and Lone Tree; the four-store Poke Concept; and The Bronze Empire.
The latter is located in the same strip mall as Sushi SYC, but the concepts differ wildly. The sushi spot originally launched as an omakase-only restaurant. But after a year, Crossland has decided to open it up a la carte, with the omakase as an option (a shift currently in progress).
Of course the dry aging remains a big part of the menu, and already it features an assortment of options including Spicy Maguro (bluefin tuna), Sake (salmon), Hamchi, Kani (blue crab), and Shima Aji (striped jack). Guests can see the magic right at the back of the restaurant, where one dry-aging case stands, its window clear for all to peer in.
On the regular menu guests can dive into other prime bites, such as the Zuwaigani (snow crab) temaki with garlic butter, Shiitake Mushroom temaki with sesame seeds, and Hotate (Hokkaido scallop) nigiri. On the flame-touched aburi side, definitely go for the Wagyu with truffle paste, Foie Gras with fig, and the King Oyster Mushroom, a favorite bite on a recent visit.
Other small plates lean toward classic Japanese finger foods. For example the Lobster Tempura with truffle aioli and Chawanmushi, a classic steamed egg dish topped with snow crab and chives. Pair that with a glass of sake, or, if doing the omakase, go for the sake pairing. Either way, the helpful staff will guide you.
Aside from making a reservation for the restaurant now, a great way to get a taste of what Sushi by SYC does at SURF Seafood Competition, taking place on Thursday, July 30 at 6 p.m. in Denver’s Sculpture Park. Lee will be in the VIP section whipping up a mini omakase with four pieces of nigiri, Japanese beef, and black cod, all from Buckhead Denver. Festival tickets include this, and all the other seafood bites showcased. And yes, you can have seconds, thirds, and more.
Visit Sushi By SYC Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m. 1573 S. Colorado Blvd., Denver, sushibysyc.com
