Less than a year after opening Sol 7 at the newly minted Thompson Hotel Houston, Table One Hospitality has debuted Chardon, an elegant French bistro on the street level of the property. The show-stopping restaurant takes a modern approach to French cuisine with some Texas flair, with Houston chef E.J. Miller at the helm.
In the past year, the Thompson Hotel and the surrounding Allan Parkway Lifestyle Pavilion have been a hot bed for restaurant openings with the debuts of Sol 7; Maven Coffee + Cocktails, owned by Houston Astros pitcher Lance McCullers Jr. and others; and the first Texas outpost of Mexican steakhouse, Toca Madera, all creating lots of buzz. Chardon is a welcome addition.
With its own dedicated entrance, Chardon allows guests to immerse themselves in a dreamy space that combines European neoclassical and art deco architecture with elements of Houston’s cultural heritage. The buildout, designed by AvroKO’s Miami Studio, features ambient lighting and scalloped marble floors that lead guests to a luxe dining area with all eyes drawn to a bar framed by walnut arches. Banquettes and tables pepper the checkered-floor dining room, while custom leather stools with walnut and brass accents offer comfortable bar seating.
Wetting your palate with something from the bar is not a bad way to start. Sommelier Jasmine Kemda curated Chardon’s beverage program, which includes wines from France and California, and a combination of local and French spirits for cocktails like the fizzy cote d’Azur spritz crafted with Lillet Rosé, Giffard wild elderflower, and prosecco.
Miller, whose experience includes stints at Riel and celeb chef Michael Mina and Ayesha Curry’s now shuttered CityCentre restaurant, International Smoke, is a pro at infusing local color into the menu by showcasing the region’s bountiful fresh offerings. This is evident throughout the menu, beginning with poached Gulf shrimp with a gin cocktail sauce, Rockefeller-style broiled oysters, and an endive Caesar salad built with local crab, garlic streusel, and a caper aioli. He takes liberties with the pâte en croute, incorporating Broken Arrow Ranch wild boar and a muscadine gelee with local pecans, in lieu of pistachio; and the Texas wagyu steak tartare, which reflects the state’s abundance of sunflowers with seeds and sunchokes, and a peppery kick from gochujang.
In the way of entrees, guests seeking Dover Sole will instead find Miller’s twist on the classic, incorporating Gulf flounder prepared en papillote, a technique in which the fish is wrapped in a sealed packet before cooking. Other gems from the sea include butter-basted Atlantic scallops with oxtail marmalade and broiled whole lobster au poivre, large enough for two.
Steak frites, a comforting French tradition, is on offer, with guests given the opportunity to choose from cuts that include local R-C Ranch wagyu ribeye or center-cut filet, and sides of bearnaise, au poivre, or bordelaise sauce, while Miller’s iteration of beef bourguignon incorporates wagyu beef cheeks, lardons, and pearl onions.
The dessert course is offered to guests with great ceremony. Before indulging in French classics like crunchy profiteroles with salted caramel ice cream or the Texas-sized le grande macaron au chocolate with raspberries and hazelnut gianduja mousse, a trolley cart showcasing different cheeses journeys through the dining room. Guests are presented with a dozen different cheeses and accoutrements like olives, cornichons, mustard, and honeycomb.
Chardon is accepting reservations for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. with weekend brunch set to launch soon.
Chardon, 1711 Allen Pkwy. Ste. 101, Houston, tableonehospitality.com/chardon
