What happens when two great chefs with a lot of accolades between them decide to combine forces and open a restaurant? Tacos happen. Really good tacos with little fuss, under the moniker of Molino Chido.
“We want it to be that Mexico City style, kind of like a dumpy taqueria that’s just making really, really good tacos,” said chef Tommy Lee, co-founder of Molino Chido and owner of Denver’s two Uncle restaurants and Hop Alley. “Like everything’s done simply, but done right.”
In order to make this taco magic, Lee partnered with chef Michael Diaz de Leon, who is no stranger to Denver, though he hasn’t had a true landing spot since working at BRUTO. Yes, that BRUTO, run by Id Est Hospitality, which won its first Michelin Guide star under the leadership of Diaz de Leon. The chef has also taken home the San Pellegrino Starchefs Game Changer Award in 2022. Lee himself has garnered recognition with two Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, seen his restaurants top just about any “best of” list, and his restaurants are recommended by many of his peers.
The idea for Molino Chido came as organically as possible. In fact, the space inside Stanley Marketplace presented itself to Lee after his friend, and a partner of the firm representing the venue, reached out. Lee was asked if he wanted to open a Mexican restaurant in the former Comida spot, and in turn the chef contacted Diaz de Leon.
Turns out, something like this was exactly what the chef was looking for. After over a year of traveling, doing pop-ups under the moniker Pinchi Umami, and collaborating on plenty of chef dinners, he was ready to settle down, both for himself and his family. With a bit of his BRUTO sensibilities in place and over a decade of experience, Molino Chido was born.
“The name of the restaurant is Molino, meaning the mill, the machinery, or the hand cranker, and then ‘chido’ means cool, awesome, like, great,” explained Diaz de Leon. “So it’s just a “cool mill,” and the idea is for us to take this really humble ingredient, which is the maíz [corn], as the vessel, but then whatever goes on top, that’s where we get really creative.”
The hope, said the chefs, is to produce an experience where you close your eyes and you’re transported to a place where you have enjoyed great tacos, be that Mexico City or Aurora, Colorado. Corn will go through nixtamalization in house, and topped with an array of traditional meats such as al pastor and carnitas. Ceviche may make the menu too, as will specials inspired by Diaz de Leon’s travels. As for Lee’s Asian and ramen influences, well don’t be surprised if some interesting noodle bowls make the menu too, or you see a blending of both cultures.
Now, said Diaz de Leon, he can make his food available to anyone, rather than just the flush clientele of Bruto. Yet, while the restaurant model shines with inexpensive street food, the team doesn’t want to sacrifice quality or flavor. Each tortilla will be made by hand in a room off to the side with a large picture window, so any passersby can look in and watch. The chefs also considered the ingredients and food waste into their concept.
“It’s important to continue to support local farmers, and we’re sourcing the corn in Colorado to begin with,” said Diaz de Leon. “The reduction of a carbon footprint is important to me, and, you know, I got a green star [at Bruto] and I cannot just throw all that stuff away. That’s my challenge, how can we be ‘sustainable,’ and I want it.”
The restaurant will have 130 seats, and 3,400-square-feet of space, including a full bar and outdoor areas. The tables and chairs are reminiscent of taco stands in Mexico City, and the chefs sourced the branded furniture from there as well. The plan so far includes the bar offering a great list of natural wines, but also frozen margaritas, and zero-proof cocktails.
Overall the service model leans into fast casual, where diners order at the counter and then have food delivered. Servers will come around refilling water, getting more drinks, and adding more food as needed. They also want a taco counter where guests can sidle up and ask for a bite and get a random, delicious taco.
“I spend a lot of time in Mexico City, one of my favorite things is standing up and just eating tacos,” said Diaz de Leon. “It’s like I can eat more tacos if I’m standing up.”
Bring that theory to the test, and get ready to visit Molino Chido this fall.
