One might think the NoLita/Little Italy neighborhood of downtown Manhattan would be teeming with restaurants, but there are much fewer dining options that you’d imagine in a neighborhood that has retail and shopping covered. So in early 2016, when chef Ryan Hardy and the Delicious Hospitality Group, who also run Charlie Bird on King Street, opened Pasquale Jones, a wood-fired Italian restaurant on the corner of Mulberry and Kenmare, it was pretty much an instant hit.
Locals flip over the inventive pies like a Cacio e Pepe Pizza and clam pie, the now-iconic pork shank, and very extensive wine list. By the summer of 2016, Pete Wells awarded Pasquale Jones two-and-a-half stars in his glowy New York Times review.
Ten years, one pandemic, and many changes later it feels like Pasquale Jones has been part of the neighborhood far beyond a decade. To commemorate the anniversary, we caught up with Hardy to talk about what the subsequent years has brought to the restaurant, and why it’s as relevant as ever.
How does it feel to approach this anniversary year? Are you feeling nostalgic and proud? Sentimental and optimistic? Or has it not sunk in yet?
I’m extraordinarily proud that a 50-seat wood-fired pizza restaurant has made the impact it has with our staff, our guests, and a country obsessed with pizza. There are reportedly 78,000 pizzerias in the country, and we’ve been voted in the top 50 year after year.
And, our pizza has flown on Jet Blue airlines; all around the world to Paris, Amsterdam, London, Los Angeles, and the Caribbean. [Note: In late 2020, Ryan debuted a new, refreshed onboard hospitality experience for Jet Blue’s Mint Class.] An anniversary like this is humbling in an era in our industry that moves as fast as news cycles. It’s difficult to build a brand that is both part of the community and recognizable in others.
What’s the biggest difference between being a chef today and in 2016? Is there anything in particular that stands out to you the most?
Diners consume [meals] very differently today than in the past. The rise of social media, dieting trends, etc. have changed the way we cook and eat. People used to go out for dinner and a movie—and now, a lot of that consumption happens at home—so we have to find ways to make meals more interesting, shorter, and more interactive.
We started introducing more programming over meals which guests have been excited about. From our Pizza Omakase [an exclusive, six-course tasting dinner experience] to a wine dinner series, and our new Pasta Lab at Charlie Bird [a four-course pasta tasting menu]. All of these events are engaging for both staff and guests.
If you could time travel back to your first day of work (or first week) at Pasquale Jones, what would you tell young(er) Ryan?
Haha! Don’t take any day for granted; embrace every day. We’ve lived through a pandemic, bank failures, colleagues who’ve passed. My 10-year-old daughter took her first steps in this restaurant. Oh, and [I’d tell him]: You’ll have more energy at 50-years-old than you did at 40!
Visit Pasquale Jones for Saturday and Sunday brunch from 12 to 4 p.m.; lunch Wednesday through Friday from 12 to 4 p.m.; dinner Sunday through Thursday from 4 to 10 p.m.; and dinner Friday and Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m. 187 Mulberry St., NoLita, pasqualejones.com