To be honest, I didn’t have high hopes the pizza at the newly opened Roberta’s in Cap Hill would be that great. At least not what I remembered as a 20-something living in Brooklyn in the early 2000s.
The first Roberta’s Pizza opened in 2008, in the Bushwick neighborhood in New York City, an area in the early stages of gentrification. The main interlopers sported ironic mustaches, mops of messy hair under beanies, thick glasses real and fake, and an attitude of nonchalance few could carry off.
Roberta’s, with its wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas, hot honey drizzles, and seasonal ingredients, could pull off cool in a way many hipsters craved and aimed toward. Almost immediately the industrial-chic spot became the go-to place for those looking beyond New York style pies and the stuffy restaurants serving “gourmet” pizza. Manhattan dwellers traveled on the L train to get to Roberta’s. People waited in line to score a table at brunch. And no one seemed to care if the service lacked, as long as we got to be there.
When co-owners Brandon Hoy and Carlo Mirarchi started growing the small shop in 2018, first to Los Angeles, then another in Brooklyn, and a fourth in back in California, Roberta’s changed too. Suddenly a frozen pizza line came into the picture, and that cool component became corporate. By this time the idea of artisan, wood-fired pies had spread around the country.
Thanks to Denver’s solid scene of pizza joints including Cart-Driver, Marco’s Coal Fired, Blue Pan Pizza, and Joy Hill, my memory of Roberta’s dwindled. But now, the Brooklyn joint has landed in Denver, opening in the Urban Cowboy Public House inside the Urban Cowboy Hotel in the historic George Schleier Mansion. Of course I had to try it, at the very least for nostalgia’s sake.
Upon walking in, the place exuded Brooklyn cool. The space showcased a vintage feel with classic floral wallpaper as the main art. A stoic antique bar took center stage, sounded by simple wooden tables and banquets. It was also full of people. On first glance the eatery showcased the hipster crowd I knew well from Bushwick. One couple sported chick cowboy gear. A handful of patrons looked like bike messengers or the staff of a dive bar. A bevy of stylish people loitered the bar, eager to place an order.
It was busy and fun, and confusing. But we figured it out, at least for that night. The first thing to do is order at the bar. Next, wait for a cocktail, wine, or other drink before snatching up the ski-photo table marker. Take said stand to a seat inside or out, or even at the bar if there’s space.
The menu featured my favorite pizza from the days of yore, the Bee Sting ($25), with that aforementioned honey. We also tried the large and fresh Green Lettuce Salad ($18), and the Famous Original pie ($24). Everything tasted as I remembered, and even the chewy Neapolitan-style dough was spot on. That crust, said chef Cheyenne Langis, was a real win. Given the altitude and sea level recipe she had to work with, it took some time to perfect.
The food came out quick. Even in the chaos the servers were on point and friendly, a divergence from the memory of the original location. As for the crowd, the restaurant kept getting waves of guests throughout our visit. Whether they were there because the area lacked a pizza joint like this or they knew how cool Roberta’s was in Brooklyn, I cannot say. I do know my guest and I were there because we remembered and wanted a taste of that former life, and the Mile High rendition of Roberta’s did not disappoint.
Visit Roberta’s at Urban Cowboy Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m., 1665 N. Grant St., Denver, robertaspizza.com
