Mid-century modern style has taken over Denver, and the latest comes from owner Steven Waters, who launches FiNO this Wednesday, March 18, in the East Colfax neighborhood. But getting to this point wasn’t easy, and it took 10 years to bring into fruition.
“It’s a miracle it’s happening,” said Waters, who also runs Run for the Roses in Denver and Take Care Brands Hospitality. “It came with a ton of support from neighbors and the city, and without them it wouldn’t have happened.”
Dining at FiNO
Located inside the soon-to-open The All Inn Hotel, FiNO brings a casual restaurant to the area with the idea of creating a neighborhood hot spot. It’s meant, said Waters, to be a stop-in when you want a laid back meal, or snacks before going to dinner, or even after. The menu features an assortment of small plates built for sharing, created under the guidance of chef Sheamus Feeley, who helped open Pony Up in Downtown Denver, and now lives and runs a restaurant in Oklahoma.
“We are trying to make something that is fun and playful, while trying to make people think of traditional things,” explained Waters, who added the team realized they didn’t want an Italian restaurant or a trattoria, they wanted a looser definition. “We are more inspired by the idea of traveling through these [coastal] regions and popping into different restaurants and having little bites.”
While the menu may change, during the soft opening it included classic Spanish Tomato Toast and Anchovy Toast with herbed tonnato and creme fraiche, both on bread from local bakery GetRight’s. Dessert also comes from the bakery, and currently that includes Chocolate Mousse and Pistachio Cake.
On the more inventive side, the house-marinated olives offer a pleasing melody of olives mixed with citrus, thyme, and garlic. There’s also a dish dubbed Medi Nachos, which features a pile of perfect kettle chips layered with prosciutto, garlic toum, herbed tonnato, and a fluffy mound of freshly grated pecorino. Don’t miss the Charred Cabbage either, with a cauliflower purée, brown butter, lemon, and fried capers, it’s keeping diners obsessed with the leafy green.
Feeley also created Vodka O’s, or as the staff likes to call it, Adult SpaghettiOs. It tastes little like the childhood canned version, and instead features housemade vodka sauce with eight-gram meatballs swimming among the ring-shaped pasta. More will come to the menu, added Waters, who waxed poetically (along with this writer) about the upcoming mortadella specials he wants to do.
“The beauty of the menu is it will continue to evolve,” added Waters. “Of course there will be staples, but it’s about discovering things each time you come in and having fun experiences.”
The FiNO Beverage Program
Cocktails also make a splash, with the idea of having zero waste between the kitchen and bar. For example, the humble lemon gets used for every piece, down to the zest, juice, and skin.
Reading the menu you’ll find it organized by style of drink, including spritzes, full-proof freezer pours, easy sippers, and dessert cocktails. Choices range from the bright Rhubarb Sour with vodka to a Pistachio Mai Tai to the Pornstar Spritz, topped with sparkling rose. Martini lovers should certainly order the Dirty FiNO, made with brine from the aforementioned olives as well as Citadelle Cornichon gin, Grey Goose, and pickled tomato water. Five distinct mocktails can also be found mixed in and marked.
Look toward the wine list too. Diners can get it by the glass and half-glass, with a focus on organic, biodynamic, and coastal European lambrusco and chilled reds. Down the line, added Waters, sherries will grace the menu.
Mixing Past and Pleasure
These changes to the decor and menu are a far cry from the origins of landmarked property. When it opened in 1959, the building housed The Fountain Inn. Eventually, it changed to The All-Inn, and the downstairs restaurant became the dive Rockbar, which operated in the space last, closing in 2012.
Then, in 2016, Brian Toerber bought the motel from the bank, and though the hotel too was a dive, it stayed open until 2022. Now, after a major overhaul, the motel opens anew on March 26. To pay homage to the beginnings, Waters plans to add an actual vintage rock fountain to the property soon.
The overall look of FiNO taps into that 1950s design, with the signature rock wall still intact. The 112-seat space mixes olive-hued padded booths and bankettes. The tables and glassware have a classy vintage feel, and a mix of room dividers make FiNO feel larger than it is. There’s also a cozy bar located in the lobby of the hotel. Once everything is up and running, we expect Waters’ dream of having a neighborhood spot to stop into will be actualized.
Visit FiNO starting March 18, daily from 5 to 11 p.m. 3015 E. Colfax Ave., inside The All Inn Hotel, finocolfax.com
