August has ended but the dreams of all the great restaurants we ate at haven’t faded. While so much good food passed our lips, these dishes stuck out, and we hope to eat them again soon.
Did you have a favorite bite of the month? We would love to know your own highlights and suggestions for must-try plates.
Amarillo Ceviche at Toro
Bright and beautiful may be the first impression one has of the ceviche at chef Richard Sandoval’s Toro in Cherry Creek, but it’s more than that. The fruity mango in the dish gets tamed by tart and spicy leche de tigre, which works perfectly to “cook” the tender pieces of hamachi nestled inside. Served with fresh tortilla and plantain chips, it’s delightful to share or make a whole meal out of. 150 Clayton Ln., Denver, torodenver.com
Chocolate Brownie at Carne
In celebration of Westword food editor Molly Martin finishing chemo, we went to Carne in RiNo. At the end, two Chocolate Brownie desserts came out, and though I feigned a polite bite, once tried, I couldn’t stop eating the gooey, salty, and rich chocolatey goodness. The brownie was warm, the ice cream a salted chocolate, and the sauce covering felt like a delicious bow to tie together. Of course our friend getting better was the real cherry on top. 2601 Larimer St., Denver, carne-rino.com
Roasted Broccoli Caesar at Mercantile
Occasionally I guide a food tour with Colorado’s longest-running food tour company, Local Table Tours. One day the founder sent my group to Mercantile for an array of bright salads. She wasn’t wrong in this direction, and everyone at the table raved about the Roasted Broccoli Caesar, something I can’t stop thinking about.
The $16 plate features Bruson bacon, an umami-tinged miso dressing, and savory bread crumbs in lieu of croutons. It’s worth heading to Union Station just for that, though I highly recommend adding a plate of fries to go with it. 1701 Wynkoop St. #155, Denver, mercantiledenver.com
Black Truffle Macaroni Gratin at Palace Arms
There’s a summer menu at Palace Arms in the Brown Palace dubbed La Palais Frites, and it’s only $45 for bottomless duck fat fries, salad, a protein, and dessert. But, you should absolutely add on the $18 Black Truffle Macaroni Gratin. Think gourmet baked mac and cheese meets scalloped potatoes, in a creamy and umami rich perfection complete with dark edges. Oh yeah, black truffles too. 321 17th St., Denver, brownpalace.com
Salt and Pepper Calamari at MAKfam
Beloved Chinese restaurant MAKfam in Baker has added new items to the menu, including one of the best salt and pepper squid dishes I’ve had. The idea comes from chef Kennith Wan’s childhood and how his family would always order the plate when they went out. He has created a comforting rendition that’s both elevated and down to earth. 39 W. 1st Ave., Denver, makfam.co
Salmon Oshizushi at Tamaki Den
Apparently the Salmon Oshizushi at Tamaki Den in The Source has a following. In fact, the server said one person once ordered 42 pieces of the pressed sushi. Obviously I had to try it. During happy hour you can get one piece for $3, with a four piece limit. Normally it’s $4, and certainly worth getting any time you’re there. The salmon, much like the rest of the fish there, exuded freshness with a tinge of sweet and had a melt-in-the-mouth feel. I don’t know if I would want dozens at a time, but certainly more than one. 3350 Brighton Blvd., Denver, temakiden.com
Bear Pop at BearLeek
We anticipated a lot from BearLeek, the first restaurant run and owned by chefs Harrison Porter and Rema Maaliki. It did not disappoint, though it was dessert that sealed the deal for us. Dubbed the Bear Pop, the dish featured a simple frozen dessert put in a gummy bear mold. This version had passionfruit, and on top a delightful dollop of smoky chili crisp evened out the sweet and cool with warm and spicy. 2611 Walnut St., Denver, bearleek.com
Airplane Chicken at The Nickel
Yes, sometimes roasted chicken is all you need, and when it comes to the Airplane Chicken at The Nickel inside downtown’s Hotel Teatro, this proves true. The name of the dish comes from the cut, which consists of a boneless breast with the first joint of the wing still attached. Other than that vague resemblance to an airplane, that’s all there is to it. But nothing about chef Franco Ruiz’s chicken is boring, it’s perfectly juicy with crisp, salty skin. Served with a pile of green bean salad, baby squash, and charred eggplant, and it was a full and perfect meal. 1100 14th St., Denver, thenickeldenver.com
Beer Battered Onion Rings at Fifty Burger in Salida
Roadtrips are for taking chances, which my family did by randomly stopping at Fifty Burger in Colorado’s quaint town of Salida. The menu offered tons of craveable dishes, but the most memorable item we ordered came in the form of an onion ring and served with chipotle mayo on the side. Large and firm, with the perfect fried dough to onion ratio, these rings stayed in place with each bite. My son may have ordered them for himself, but I gladly ate half. 445 E. Hwy 50, Salida, 50burgersalida.com
