When Koko Ni closed in November, it left a beautiful shell ripe for something to move into while the owners figured out what to do with the RiNo space. In essence, a pop-up was in order. Lucky for us, Brandon Soto and chef Silvino Sanchez stepped up and into the building to launch UP NXT DEN.
“It’s a wine bar and rising hospitality professional incubator project,” said Soto about the pair’s month-long endeavor. “Our goals are to remove the barrier of entry for hospitality professionals [so they can] enter the pop-up space and create a collective community experience.”
With this idea in mind, instead of taking over the spot as a restaurant, Koko Ni will act as a month-long pop-up and incubator for various local talent. At the basic level, UP NXT DEN serves as a wine bar featuring natural vinos curated by Soto and small plates featuring Sanchez’s creations.
Think bites such as Chicken Thigh ($16), Leek Fries with nam prik pao aioli ($11), Chips & Dip with burnt onion ranch ($15), and Taco Arabe with lamb ($18). Aside from wine, off the beverage menu the Black Truffle Horchata ($15) is calling to us. This special menu runs on January 16, 17, 23, and 30, though the drinks and a small portion of the food will also be offered before the meal experiences the other days.
Sanchez, a former chef at Bruto who worked under Michael Diaz de Leon (as did Soto), will also host one of his popular Sana Sana pop-up dinners on January 26. Guests at the exclusive meal will enjoy an expertly crafted seven-course meal displaying Mexican and Southeast Asian flavors.
One of the main reasons the two decided to launch the pop-up was to help showcase hospitality workers that don’t necessarily get the attention, let alone the accolades, of bigger names. In fact, said Sanchez, they added the Roman fasces to the UP NXT DEN logo, a symbol found on the Colorado seal that represents unity. For Soto and Sanchez, it means they feel that as a community, we are stronger together.
“As a small business trying to build itself up, it can be difficult sometimes,” said Sanchez. “So it’s about bringing that next generation of small businesses, hospitality workers, and chefs that are up-and-coming together and making their voices large enough to be heard so we can all get representation.”
The wine bar aspect of UP NXT DEN will run until February 2, and is open Thursday through Sunday from 3 p.m. to midnight. During most of these days the team showcases their food-focused friends, chefs, drink experts, and other people who have a small business they want to get going. There aren’t tickets, save for some of the dinners, it’s overall a casual experience anyone can enjoy.
“It’s first come, first serve and if you want to just pop in and eat some ice cream really quick and leave, that’s fine,” said Soto. “If you want to come, eat some ice cream, hang out, drink a glass of wine, maybe order some food, and make a whole dinner or date out of it, that’s also great.”
First up, tonight, January 16, Yna Zuniga, the pastry chef at Bruto, will be launching her ice cream company. Anyone can show up to try the ice cream, be that as a half-pint or sundae. Zuniga will also have her bespoke ice cream available as a subscription for people to sign up for.
On Friday, January 17, beverage pro Paul Webb brings his elevated libation concept, Sipping Art. Again, the small menu of food will be available, as well as Webb’s creations. On Saturday, fermentation specialist Christopher Ryan of the Wolf’s Tailor showcases his Grounded Coloradan Cuisine as a dinner. Then on Sunday, Rema Maaliki, chef-owner of Poppy, brings a philanthropic Palestinian and Lebanese experience to the space.
The following week expect 4 Corners, Sips and Sweets of the South West, by Madi and Leeroy Julia on January 23. On January 24 get a taste of winter in Eastern Europe as chef Caleb Rocha, the chef de partie at the Wolf’s Tailor, takes the spotlight. Hannah Cunningham brings a preview of her Le Bon Temps, a soon-to-come music and community-driven wine bar with a Franco-Cajun twist.
The final week features wine director Aiyana Thoma of the listening bar ESP, who will host a nostalgic tasting progression of vinos, which you can enjoy with Sanchez’s menu on January 30. January 31 brings Alberto and Alejandro Rodriguez of Dos Caras and Cobre. The pair plans to honor P’urhepecha heritage as they display modern-ancestral cooking practices. The last meal will be a conceptual dining experience by Soto and Sanchez, all aimed at honoring the people who help feed and make the Denver community. Then on February 1, chef Cheyenne Langis brings her Italian-focused Stuzzi pop-up to the space for dinner.
After UP NXT DEN we aren’t sure what the future holds for Koko Ni, Soto, and Sanchez. Founded by Texas-based chef Paul Qui under the banner of FAM Hospitality, Koko Ni closed last November after the overseeing chef James Gnizak left. According to managing partner Johnny Hoang, the concept is taking a break as the space gets reimagined, though the plan is to stick to the community-minded model Soto and Sanchez are building. Until then, enjoy the art by local artists, a bright dining room, and a relaxed vibe for the rest of the month during UP NXT DEN. As for Soto and Sanchez, it’s just the beginning.
Visit UP NXT DEN in Koko Ni now through February 2, Thursday to Sunday from 3 p.m. to midnight. Find tickets and details here. 1441 26th St., Denver.
