There is no such thing as small talk with Kelly Whitaker. That’s because the co-founder of the Id Est Hospitality Group thinks big–even when it’s a limited residency on his mind.
From the more casual Basta and Hey Kiddo to special-occasion destinations BRUTØ and The Wolf’s Tailor, his restaurants aren’t just places to eat—they’re proving grounds for his ideas about not merely repairing but revitalizing our agricultural systems and rejuvenating our foodways, as well as laboratories for collaborating with like minds both at home and around the globe. And, with wife/partner Erika, he’s got a 2024 James Beard Award for Best Restaurateur to show for his groundbreaking efforts, not to mention more accolades from the Michelin Guide, stars included, than anyone in Colorado.
So when he spoke with me recently about SHEEP, the tasting-menu concept that he and his team are launching as a pop-up in the Clayton Hotel & Members Club from July 8 to October 4, he naturally had as much to say about, for instance, “net-positive cooking,” “ingredient circularity,” and “supporting the maker” as he did about the actual dining experience. No clue as to what all that means? Then you’ve got all the more reason to check out what’s sure to be the hottest spot in Cherry Creek this summer.
A Taste of a Vision
In essence, SHEEP is an encapsulation of The Wolf’s Tailor (which holds two Michelin stars, the only restaurant in Colorado to do so), offering a four-course menu starting at $95 per person versus the latter’s eight- or nine-course tasting for $225. But true to form, Whitaker described it in more complex terms.
“I’d say it’s part introduction, part reminder,” he said. “There have been a lot of versions of Wolf’s. Some people I interact with are like, ‘Oh, I love the skewers and the pasta,’ and I’m like, ‘That was six years ago, 45 different editions ago.’ My commitment to Wolf’s was always that it was going to change as I change. There are so many things that we’ve discovered, new ideas that we’re supporting, new fights we’ve taken up. Now is the time to showcase the work we’ve done.”
Overseeing the kitchen is Wolf’s chef Taylor Stark, with whom Whitaker conceived the inaugural menu (aided by executive pastry chef Emily Thompson). That kitchen “has only a hearth and an open wood-fire grill,” according to Whitaker, which explains the themes around which the quartet of courses is built: Smoke, Ember, Flame, and Ash. But it doesn’t explain the thought that goes into each dish, the care for the raw materials provided by local farmers and ranchers—including Whitaker himself, whose agricultural initiatives range from regenerative wheat to heirloom corn.
Take the whole roasted Pekin squab as just one example. Cured and smoked over the course of two or three days, it’s accompanied by pancakes made with white Sonora flour from Dry Storage, the Boulder mill and bakery Whitaker established in 2019 to utilize those grains he’s involved in growing. And it’s also accompanied by sourdough gochujang, a fermented chili paste that exemplifies Id Est’s mission to go “far beyond zero-waste,” in his words.
“The gochujang is in all of our kitchens now, but it started as a waste project from our bakery,” said Whitaker. “This is all regenerative organic grains that we grow, mill, and make into bread with natural fermentation. Then we take any leftover bread and we cut it, dry it, grow koji [mold] on it, [add] gochugaru chilies, and blend it into this incredibly homemade-feeling [condiment]. All of my Korean friends who try it are like, ‘Whoa.’”
But every dish reflects the culinary team’s ethos of conscientious creativity, be it a grilled oyster bathed in dashi made from pork scraps or a popsicle flavored with Thai basil from The Wolf’s Tailor’s own garden. And the same goes for the beverage program.
Mindful Drinking
“As we always do, we are vetting our wine and spirits producers for conscious land stewardship,” remarked Id Est beverage director Caroline Clark, adding that the “small, focused” wine list spotlights organic, biodynamic, and/or regenerative growers “through the lens of neighboring regionality. Vibrant styles of Oregon, California, and Colorado wine are given preference—showcasing the individuality of these places through familiar and approachable grape varieties.” (For more on Clark’s approach to sourcing, see our recent guide to top Denver wine programs, which includes Hey Kiddo.)
The cocktails likewise feature seasonal ingredients “that are meant to spark a conversation,” noted Whitaker, singling out peaches as a case in point.
“I think I even mentioned it on Instagram, like, ‘Let’s talk about drought.’ Because Ela Family Farms isn’t getting a single peach for the first time in its history,” added Whitaker. “[But] they’re very zero-waste-minded, and they collect a lot of juice and pulp. So I just started buying it all, and we’re going to have a cocktail on SHEEP’s menu based on [that] juice or pulp.”
Teetotalers, meanwhile, will have alternatives like Haykin’s nonalcoholic cider and sparkling tea from Kettl in New York.
Creating Curiosity
The 54-seat sixth-floor dining room that was previously open exclusively to Clayton club members has, of course, been renovated with Id Est’s core values in mind. Partnering with design studio Wunder Werkz, Whitaker commissioned various artisans such as Denver Modern and RVPottery to provide furnishings and ceramics. Whitaker added he aimed to support the artist’s work while ensuring that it’s all “stuff that we can use down the road.”.
But what he was most excited about were the statement pieces on display throughout the space: Irish artist Ronan Dillon’s paintings inspired by sheep, for instance. And sheepskins that “point to whole-animal utilization,” as he put it. And, above all, a plant-based installation created by Erika Whitaker herself.
“She’s working with some different types of moss, which we can [eventually] compost into our gardens,” said the proud husband. “She’s talented and amazing, and she has 15 years of building aesthetics in our restaurants.”
Over the course of those 15 years, Whitaker added, “We’ve come so far. The public has a lot of different perceptions of Wolf’s, and I love that—it’s meant to create curiosity. I want people to come in and discover it.”
Visit SHEEP starting July 8 for dinner nightly from 5 p.m. to close, and lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. 233 Clayton St., Denver, iehospitality.com
