Colorado has a lot of talent, no matter what the internet trolls like to say. From chefs who not only cook with the season but actually grow their own food to perfectly executed service to elegant displays of old world cuisine, we are so lucky. Shining a light on this talent is the Michelin Guide, which just came to the state last year.
The Michelin Guide has been around in some form since 1900, and last night we got to celebrate the stars in Boulder, Denver, Vail, Aspen, Beaver Creek, and Snowmass with the second annual awards ceremony. It was beautiful to see so many happy restaurant people shine, though the misses glared apparent too.
The Michelin Guide Wins
First, the wins. The biggest moment of the night was when chef Johnny Curiel not only took home the prize for Young Chef/Culinary Professional Award, but gained a star for his 9-month-old restaurant Alma Fonda Fina. It was the only addition to the Colorado stars, though the other restaurants from last year maintained their status too, including Denver’s The Wolf’s Tailor, Bruto, and Beckon, as well as Bosq in Aspen, and Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder.
The Green Star list also remained the same. With Kelly Whitaker’s Id Est Hospitality taking more accolades for Bruto and The Wolf’s Tailor, the only two Denver spots. In Boulder, chef Hosea Rosenberg got a Green Star for Blackbelly, and chef-cum-farmer Eric Skokan also received an award. Skokan owns Bramble & Hare, which utilizes most of its protein and produce from the chef’s working operation, Black Cat Farm.
MIchelin’s Bib Gourmand 2024
The next tier of awards came in the form of the Bib Gourmand, described by the guide as a “just-as-esteemed rating that recognizes friendly establishments that serve good food at moderate price.” But what is afforable? According to Michelin it’s “a three-course meal with starter, main course and dessert, within a fixed price range.” Which, as it turns out, is around $40.
New to the list is MAKfam, a personal favorite and one of the places I expected to succeed (as well as Alma Fonda Fina). It’s easy to see why chef Kenneth Wan’s MSG-forward Chinese restaurant fits into this category. An order of Crab Cheese Wantons ($11), Beef Stir Fry Noodles ($16.50), and glass of house red wine ($8.50), or dessert for some of us, rings in at $35 before tax and tip.
On the other hand, fellow Bib Gourmand winner Tavernetta‘s least expensive multi-course meal would be only at lunch. At $35 per person you get two courses and can order a scoop of gelato for an extra $5. On the other hand for dinner, handmade pastas start at $30. We understand how it made this list, but maybe next year we can see them bumped up to a star, which it rightly deserves.
The other Bib Gourmand winners in Denver this year included Ash’Kara, The Ginger Pig, Glo Noodle House, Hop Alley, La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal, and Mister Oso. In Boulder Basta was the only one to get a Bib Gourmand. No other area received one.
Throughout the cities represented, there were 31 who received a Michelin recommendation. The complete list can be found on the organization’s website here.
Notable Misses
Before diving into Denver spots we feel should have made the list, let’s be clear only restaurants in Boulder, Denver, Vail, Aspen, Beaver Creek, and Snowmass could earn recognition from the guide. The reason comes down to money and who pays to have the guide in the city. This of course left out gems including chef Caroline Glover’s Annette in Aurora, chef Matt Vawter’s Rootstalk in Breckenridge, and chef Theo Adley’s Marigold in Lyons. Both chefs have been recognize by the James Beard Foundation.
Speaking of awards, Michelin completely skipped over Sắp Sửa, the Vietnamese restaurant in City Park run by husband-and-wife team Ni and Anna Nguyen. But who needs Michelin when you make Bon Appétit‘s 20 Best New Restaurants of 2024. Still, it’s a surprising oversize.
I’m also a firm believer that Restaurant Olivia is one of the best places in Denver. Chef Ty Leon’s food is beyond thoughtful, the owners bring the team on educational adventures, and the service is flawless. It’s too expensive for a Bib Gourmand, but in reality it’s absolutely worthy of a star.
Alex Figures’ Dio Mio, which gained recognition, should be moved to a Bib Gourmand. It’s amazing and fun and fits in the budget category. Ultreia too, which often gets forgotten for no good reason. We should at least see a recommendation, if not a Bib Gourmand as well.
We were surprised Lucina Eatery & Bar didn’t make the recommended list. Chefs Erasmo Casiano and Diego Coconati churn out amazing fare that just hits above the Bib Gourmand price point. While a star would be too much in this case, it’s certainly a place everyone should know. I’m also predicting accolades for the Casiano’s new Mexico City influenced spot, Xiquita (which he runs with chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez), come next year.
What do you think about this year’s awards? Let us know in the comments.
