It’s no secret Denver loves brunch. Each Wednesday we’ll divulge the newest and best brunches around. Not only do we highlight our favorite spots for all your brunching needs, but also include lists of things you crave. So pour a mimosa, grab a cup of coffee, and get ready to eat.
Since 2006 Steuben’s Food Service has brought solid American comfort eats to the Uptown neighborhood. It was the first truly hip restaurant to open up. One might even say it launched the hipster dining movement in Denver back in the 2000s, but who can really say.
Owned by Josh Wolkon and under the Secret Sauce Food & Beverage banner, which also owns Ace Eat Serve, the name Steuben’s comes from a historic Boston restaurant his great uncle owned in the 1940s through 1960s. Wolkon started opening restaurants in Denver in 1997 with the now shuttered Vesta Dipping Grill, the first upscale restaurant in LoDo and the only establishment like it in the whole city.
While moods and styles have changed over time, the food served at Steuben’s has not. Overseeing the kitchen is executive chef Sarah Goldstone. Constantly she and her staff churn out a great green chili cheeseburger, Monte Cristo sandwich, and killer fries. The restaurant also serves brunch on the weekends from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Some menu items remain similar to dinner service, but there’s plenty of breakfast-like things to draw even the most seasoned Steuben’s fan back in for something new.
Eat the Menu
The first thing to stand out on the brunch menu was the Greek Hash ($14), a hefty plate featuring gyro meat, home-style potatoes, red onions, feta cheese, marinated cucumber salad, pita, and two eggs any style. It’s enough for two, and fun to eat even if the mandatory brunch egg is, for some of us, overkill. Whether or not you skip the eggs on this next dish, don’t miss out on the Chicken Fried Schnitzel ($17). It’s the perfect savory breakfast starring a giant fried pork tenderloin topped with sausage gravy.
As for places eggs absolutely belong, choose from three types of bededicts, all on the restaurant’s homemade biscuits. On the vegetarian side, the avocado and tomato ($15) melds nicely with the hollandaise sauce. There’s also a classic version ($15) with Canadian bacon, and a crab cake ($18) option too. Each is served with a side of crispy smashed potatoes, which, be warned, are incredibly addictive.
The same biscuits can be ordered with gravy ($11), the perfect southern-style item for those who need to soak up last night’s fun choices. Again, the amazing potatoes also come on the side. Pro move, ask for extra gravy. Another hangover cure can be found in the Bodega Breakfast Sandwich ($9), a brunch masterpiece filled with American cheese, an egg how you like it, and choice of meat including bacon, Canadian bacon, sausage or chorizo. It comes on a house-made everything-seasoning potato bun.
Regular Steuben’s items also grace the brunch menu. Including the deep-fried Steubie Snacks ($10), lobster roll (market price), cobb salad ($18), and deviled eggs ($9), just in case you didn’t have enough eggs on your breakfast table.
Drink Up
A big draw to brunch at Steuben’s comes in the form of a towering Aperol Spritz Carafe ($30). The bright orange bubbly comes ready for immediate sipping, perfect for two to four people. Another show stopper is the Ramos Gin Fizz ($14), a tall glass filled with Ransom Old Tom gin, lemon, lime, simple syrup, cream, orange flower water, and, since it’s brunch (and how you make a fizz), egg white.
Michael Kurowski
Mimosas ($10) are also available. But, if you want to up the ante, order the Sorbet Mimosa ($11), which features house-made blood orange and apple cider sorbet. The flavor can change, but the scintillating sensation of sipping a fizzing drink with cool semi solids swirling around does not.
Don’t Miss This Steuben’s Specialty
Chef Michael Kurowski handles the pastry program at both Steuben’s and Ace, and he ironically doesn’t love sweets. This gives his desserts an edge perfect for those who want their cake, without an overabundance of sugar too. That’s where the Seasonal Biscuit Monkey Bread ($12) comes in.
On our last visit the special was lemon poppy with raspberry glaze. It came in a cast iron pan and was large enough to have fed at least four diners. The dough proved crunchy on the outside, pillowy on the inside, and absolutely craveable. Don’t pass it up. The monkey bread is only available at brunch and makes great leftovers, if it’s not all devoured on the spot.
Visit Steuben’s for brunch starting at 9 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. 523 E. 17th Ave., Denver, steubens.com
