Welcome to #TBT, or Throwback Thursdays, where we revisit some of the Denver metro area’s tried and true restaurants that have become institutions such as Dushanbe Teahouse, the award-winning restaurant by Three Leaf Concepts. Over time, these places have weathered the shifts in our city’s restaurant landscape. As flashy newcomers enter and exit, these restaurants, bars, and cafes remain, though sometimes get overlooked by the fickle short-term attention span of a social media-driven obsession with the new and the now.
It’s not every day a city over 7,000 miles away wants to give an entire building to another country. But after a joyous visit to Boulder in 1987, that’s exactly what the mayor of Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, decided to do.
Connected as sister cities, Dushanbe crafted a traditional teahouse complete with ceramic panels, carved columns, and a hand-painted interior. The process involved over 40 artisans and took three years.
Finally, the pieces were sent to Boulder, but it took eight years for the city to erect the structure. Eventually, the teahouse opened for business in 1998, operated by Lenny and Sara Martinelli, and it’s been a beloved part of the Boulder community ever since.
The Dushanbe Teahouse Almost Didn’t Happen
Though the teahouse was given to Boulder as a symbol of cross-cultural appreciation, its reception was lukewarm. Residents expressed concerns about accepting a gift of this size from a country within the Soviet Union, and worried about the cost of erecting the structure. The discussions over the teahouse continued for eight years while it sat in parts inside 200-odd boxes, neglected in a water treatment facility.
Eventually, the city of Boulder designated a site on 13th Street by the Boulder Creek for construction of the teahouse, and put out a call for restaurant operators to take it over. Around that time, Lenny Martinelli, who was then running the Naropa Cafe inside Naropa University, passed by the property, saw the sign, and decided to put in a bid.
“There was a tremendous amount of serendipity for me on that one,” said Martinelli, who won the bid and still operates the historic venue today.
Finding the Food and More Pushback
For Martinelli, it was important to honor the greater symbolism of the building, and celebrate the people who gifted it. What better way to get to know the country, he said, than by trying and serving their foods. At least, in part.
“Nobody knew what and where Tajikistan was, so we decided to do global food,” he explained, adding that he got pushback from Boulder for his decision. “There was the sentiment of ‘they’re all over the place, they need to focus.’”
However, Martinelli remained true to the concept, insisting on serving dishes from around the world and getting them right. “I don’t want to do fusion,” he added. “I always tell my managers we need to stay our course.”
The Boulder community’s concerns about the teahouse continued, even after the beautiful building was built. But once Martinelli opened the doors, the worries seemed to fade away.
“We opened and those sentiments immediately stopped,” he said. “Instead they wondered why it took us so long to build it because it’s a treasure.”
Turns out Boulder did want the gift, and a line formed outside the door on opening day. The teahouse has remained a favorite for both residents and visitors ever since.
The Food and Tea Make a Statement
For obvious reasons tea remains an important part of the dining experience. Clinical herbalist Sara Martinelli, Lenny’s wife, runs the tea program at Dushanbe.
“At that point there wasn’t a lot of tea going on anywhere,” said Martinelli. “But on day one we were out of teapots within five minutes.”
The house-blended chai has garnered a following, and under the name Boulder Tea Company, also sells the chai concentrate, both to individuals and retailers. But that’s just the tip of the tea iceberg. With over 100 types to choose from, there’s a blend for everyone. Some favorites include Boulder Breakfast, Meizhan Green Bud Early Spring, Flower Bud Puerh, Monkey Picked Oolong, and so many more. There’s even a line of children’s blends for that budding tea drinker.
Unlike a British-style tea, the restaurant offers a full menu of eclectic dishes. Some of the most popular have been on the menu since opening. For example, Tajikistan’s national rice dish called Tajik Osh, Persian Kufteh, and Spicy Indonesian Peanut Noodles. The menu changes twice a year, highlighting foods from over 10 countries.
Jerry Manning, now partner and director of operations for the Martinellis’ Three Leaf Concepts restaurant group, stumbled across a serving job at the teahouse in the summer of 1999, and within two years was promoted to General Manager.
“[The global menu is] a learning curve for many of the chefs,” said longtime employee and current director of operations for the Martinellis’ Three Leaf Concepts restaurant group. Jerry Manning. “There’s also a little bit of a balancing act for us, and a lot of things that are traditionally ethnic might not necessarily be appropriate and palatable for American diners, and that’s something we’ve taken into consideration.”
A Lasting Legacy and What’s Next
In the 28 years since opening, Dushanbe Teahouse has remained a pillar of the community and a top local tourist attraction.
“It’s really been able to stand the test of time,” Martinelli said. “It’s very Boulder so it found a good home.”
And they should feel proud, after all, the people of Boulder take part in the ownership since the city owns the building. The staff also feel a strong duty toward the teahouse.
“We take a tremendous pride in the responsibility of operating what really is a civic treasure,” Manning said, “Our crew is working in a museum essentially…a museum that is fast-paced and high-volume and requires them to wear a lot of hats.”
For the Martinellis, Dushanbe Teahouse has served as a launching pad. They’ve since grown the Three Leaf Concepts group, operating Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant, The Huckleberry, Zucca Italian, The Chautauqua Dining Hall, and a catering company. In 2010, the Martinellis purchased a farm in Lafayette. A few years ago they built a tea distribution warehouse in the same area in order to sell and ship the beloved teas across the country. As for what’s next for Dushanbe Teahouse
“My job is just to keep the teahouse alive,” said Martinelli, who has no plans of stopping.
Visit Dushanbe Teahouse Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. 1770 13th St., Boulder, boulderteahouse.com
