Blink and you might miss the newly-opened Chicken Riot as you drive by on 6th Avenue, it’s located in a small storefront between an apothecary and former bakery, in what used to be The Truffle cheese shop. But trust your GPS, and make sure you get there for a platter of pibil-marinated, slow-smoked chicken, the perfect chicken caesar salad, and the deviled egg chicken salad sandwich on a Reunion Bakery croissant.
If the name sounds catchy, it may be because of Riot BBQ, the 10-month-old barbecue spot in Denver’s Overland neighborhood, owned by chef Manny Barella and pitmaster Patrick Klaiber. The pair launched Chicken Riot too, which opened today. While barbecue ribs, brisket, pork, and turkey have always been the focus of the team’s brand, the fast-casual chicken concept was part of the plan from the get go.
“It was a no-brainer,” said Klaiber, speaking over the metallic deli counter that serves as the ordering point. “We wanted to be in a place like this, where people could walk over and grab lunch or dinner to go.”
The concept stems from Barella’s own childhood in Mexico. His working mom would prepare food for the week, but by Saturday she and everyone else hungered for something different. Turns out in Monterrey, the neighborhood would erupt in pollo asado stands, often coming straight out of a garage or in front of someone’s house. The family would get a smoky whole chicken for dinner, often accompanied by beans and rice.
Though Cherry Creek isn’t near Riot BBQ, the residential style of the neighborhood spoke to the team’s idea for Chicken Riot. So did the intimate size of the space. With 20 seats and some cold cases, there’s not room for much else, including a full kitchen. Because of that, a lot of the food gets made at Riot BBQ and brought over fresh.
It’s a good thing the team has such a large facility at their first restaurant. While quick and easy to get a platter to go, the process to cook the chicken takes three days. First it sits in a brine for 24 hours. Next the meat bathes in a marinade for another day. Then finally the bird smokes for three hours before moving to the rotisserie, located at Chicken Riot. The final product comes out with a smoky, crackling skin and juicy meat with distinct orange, achiote, and garlic notes.
Aside from the smoked chicken, don’t miss the salads coming out of Chicken Riot either. The hefty BLTA Salad takes the classic BLT sandwich, adds chicken, and chops it up before placing it in a chilled metal bowl. The Caesar, said Barella, came onto the menu because his wife loves the dish. He wanted to create a version that wouldn’t get limp in travel, so he mixes kale with the gem lettuce, and tosses it with hearty pieces of pulled chicken, anchovy-laced dressing, and a good amount of crunchy bread crumbs. You can also get said salad in wrap form, a $13 solo, or $16 for a combo, simply called, Wrap It Up.
Sides run the gamut from Beef Tallow Black Beans to Mexican Dirty Rice to Esquites Cornbread Muffins, a smaller take on the same style of cornbread found at Riot BBQ. You can also get a side of the aforementioned Caesar, as well as a plain salad or Zapp’s Voodoo Kettle Chips.
On the drink menu look for bottles and cans of soda, sparkling water, and iced tea. There’s also housemade lemonade, both plain and with strawberry. Everything is made to go, but guests are always welcome to take a seat at the wrap-around bar by the window, or at the large community table in the center of the space. No matter how you do it, we predict Chicken Riot will become not just a neighborhood staple, but a place for all roasted chicken fans.
Visit Chicken Riot Wednesday through Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. 2906 E. 6th Ave., Denver, eatchickenriot.com
