When news broke that the Boulder-based Frasca Hospitality Group wanted to open an Italian restaurant on South University Boulevard and East Hampton Avenue, the first thought was, why.
Then the announcement came that chef Russell Stippich would be leading the charge, leaving his spot as executive chef of Bar Dough after four years. Again, the mind went to another quizzical word–really.
Finally, we got to see what Osteria Alberico is all about, and the pieces clicked into place. The restaurant is the only one like it around. It resides just minutes from populated neighborhoods such as Cherry Hills Village, the Denver University area, and University Hills.
The main eateries around it are chains, and there really isn’t a spot for a solid meal in a nice but unpretentious setting that’s kid friendly and offers superb service and wine programs to boot. In other words, Frasca founders Peter Hoglund, Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, and Bobby Stuckey have done it again, and there’s little doubt the new eatery won’t succeed.
Of course it’s not just the founders making magic. Stippich has entered his second term with the group, the first being at Frasca Food & Wine in Boulder when he was just getting started and worked as a line cook. For this menu, the chef aimed to create solid, approachable fare one might find in an osteria in Italy. The name osteria, he explained, resides one step further in the causal direction than say a trattoria, and is certainly more of a neighborhood hang than the fine dining, special occasion restaurant that Frasca, and even Tavernetta in Union Station, is.
Though we haven’t been to sample the full menu or see service, it’s not open yet, we did get a taste of Stippich’s excellent menu. For starters, the Suppli al Telefono, a handheld bite of fried risotto, mozzarella, tomato, pecorino romano, and basil. It tasted like a really good cross between arancini and a fried mozzarella stick, and the name speaks to how the cheese pull resembles those ancient telephones with long cords.
The green salad proved fresh and bright, showcasing the chef and restaurant group’s dedication to local and seasonal ingredients. This particular dish highlighted mixed greens and arugula from Esoterra Culinary Garden, which grows out of Boulder County.
We also dived into a simple but lovely charcuterie plate with soft, thin slices of prosciutto, speck, and finochietta. The pasta featured was a Bucatini all’ Amatriciana. While not every red sauce dish excites, this one did with unctuous and addictive chunks of guanciale, which sang with the slightly sweet tomato sauce.
Finally, the Manzo + Patata, or steak and potato chips. Of course it wasn’t just New York strip steak. This beauty was sourced from a local farmer Stippich follows and cooked to medium perfection, then served with a bright salsa verde. The potato chips too stood out, for a couple reasons.
But first, one may wonder why the chef did potato chips rather than a heavy mash or even thick french fries. His reason, it’s hot and people crave lightness in the heat of summer. And boy are these chips buoyant, it’s like eating buttery, rosemary-infused air with a crunch.
Stippich has a history with the potato chips too. Turns out when he started at Frasca in 2011, it was a dish Bobby Stuckey would serve to those taking a kitchen tour. Or, they would be delivered to a table as a complement. The potato chips also became a favorite staff snack, and it’s easy to taste why.
Best part, you will get to taste why soon. The official Osteria Alberico launch day is Monday, July 29. For the chef, the opening brings his experience with the group in full circle. Don’t be surprised if you want to go again and again, the familiar restaurant is designed that way.
Visit Osteria Alberico starting Monday, July 29. 3455 S. University Blvd., Englewood, osteriaalberico.com
