Welcome to #TBT, or Throwback Thursdays, where we revisit some of the Denver metro area’s tried and true restaurants that have become institutions such as Steuben’s, which has served diner classics in a hip space for decades. Over time, these places have weathered the shifts in our city’s restaurant landscape. As flashy newcomers enter and exit, these restaurants, bars, and cafes remain, though sometimes get overlooked by the fickle short-term attention span of a social media-driven obsession with the new and the now.
It’s easy to overlook Steuben’s in Uptown, the once hipster haven that has been there 20 years. Not much has changed, but it’s those decades of consistency that keep the diner a favorite spot, cementing the restaurant into the fabric of Denver dining.
“Being hip is better than being trendy. Trendy would indicate you’re coming and then you’re going,” said co-owner Josh Wolkon over a fried chicken topped Caesar salad. “So having longevity, you know, we’re consistent and I think reliable.”
It’s not just the food that’s been steadfast, the staff also plays a part. In fact, plenty of well-known chefs have come from Steuben’s parent group, Secret Sauce Food and Beverage. For example, lauded bartender Sean Kenyon of Williams & Graham. There’s Dolores Trunco who helped open Work & Class and just recently sold her RiNo spot The Greenwich. Chef Nicholas Kayser, formerly of Vesta, went on to launch Rooted Craft Kitchen in Boulder and Vail. Also, Cliff Blauvelt, owner of Odie B’s and Boombots Pasta, who ran the Steuben’s kitchen approximately 10 years ago.
Now, as the diner celebrates its milestone, we look back on this Denver institution.
The Beginning
Wolkon made a name for himself as a restaurateur when he launched Vesta Dipping Grill in 1997, located in the at-the-time dingy LoDo area. The spot specialized in grilled meats and great sauces in an upscale atmosphere, something different for the Denver crowd and unique for the neighborhood.
Built from an old auto body shot, Steuben’s opened nine years later in Uptown. Wolkon launched it as a spot where the chefs could relax and play with food away from the formality of Vesta. With an easy, retro vibe and menu featuring green chile topped cheeseburgers, clam chowder, and one of the best cheesesteaks in town, it quickly became a staple in the community hungry for solid food in a cool setting.
Today Wolkon runs Steuben’s and the next door Asian food and ping pong restaurant Ace Eat Serve, with co-owner Emily Biederman. Some of the staff has been on since the beginning, including Biederman, who helped launch the restaurant as front-of-house management with her then-husband and the opening chef, Brandon Biederman.
The original Steuben’s was meant to give a retro feel, and 20 years later it still fits in. The team has added small tweaks and updates to the decor, but it’s been so seamless, most people haven’t noticed. For example, earlier in the year a slew of brand new chairs entered the restaurant, and one wall got a different facade altogether. But if you don’t go there every day or work there, you probably can’t pinpoint what’s different.
Two Decades of Giving Back
Over the years the team at Steuben’s has raised a lot of money for various charities. Each year it does the holiday Toys for Tots party, with different themes. Wolkon said the restaurant has raised close to half-a-million dollars for Urban Peak. The annual Wings and Whiskey fundraiser has helped out the Denver Housing Authority and its under-served youth programs. The team also donates goods to the annual Pro Roe Bake Sale, which raises funds for the Rocky Mountain chapter of Planned Parenthood.
Then there’s Project Angel Heart, where, as a group, the staff has helped package food for the nonprofit, which supports people living with illness by delivering fresh, nutrient-dense meals. Steuben’s has also been a constant participant in the organization’s Dining Out For Life, an annual fundraiser where a portion of sales gets donated to the cause.
Giving back to the staff is also a big part of the program. Each year the group hosts a wellness week, complete with activities such as self defense, chair massages, acupunctures, vitamin injections, and healthy meals. During the pandemic Steuben’s kept all its employees staffed and donated meals to hospitals around town.
Celebrating 20 Years
The team at Steuben’s pays homage to the milestone with monthly “throwback” dishes from the older menus. April wrapped up with spiced peel-and-eat shrimp, this month it’s all about the old school Tuna Melt, and come June the restaurant will serve Rhode Island Calamari. The rest of the year features, in order of months, Shrimp Po’Boy, Habanero Corn, Wacky Apple, Chili Lime Chicken Sammy, Étouffée, and for December, Chicken Noodle Soup and Latkes.
Also look for specials, giveaways, and events surrounding the milestone. Since so many chefs have come through the Steuben’s kitchen or worked nearby, the restaurant community is helping to celebrate. Right now you can seek out Golden Tickets, placed in Denver spots connected to Steuben’s in some way. The scavenger hunt starts now, and once you find one, snap a pic and tag the team. Check out the Instagram page for hints.
Visiting Steuben’s Today
Honestly, if you walked into Steuben’s in 2006 and then came back today, it won’t feel much different. The neighborhood has grown, and there are more cars around, but you can still take advantage of the free, albeit tiny, parking lot and get a solid cheeseburger.
Actually, you can get so much more. The menu maintains an American comfort food lineup, but has grown with dining trends. Now there’s Nashville hot fried chicken to go with the plain; the Macaroni & Cheese has shifted, and comes topped with anything from lobster to bacon to green chilies; and the new Crunch Burger is a take on the popular smash burger and features a pressed brioche bun. The dessert program has flourished under pastry chef Michael Kurowski, and includes decadent cakes, warm cookies, and whatever magic he decides to add to the menu.
Another big change came a few years ago when Steuben’s started accepting reservations. This is especially helpful during its busy weekend brunch. And, if you go online and can’t get a reservation, Wolkon advised calling for a table.
Last year the restaurant got another boon thanks to the updated Denver Pride Parade route, which now runs along 17th Avenue. Since then, June events have become a big deal. In fact, added Wolkon, next door at Ace Eat Serve the patio has become the unofficial Pride headquarters, and they started putting up a tent to add even more space for fun between the two restaurants.
No matter if you’re new to Steuben’s or have been going for years, it’s the kind of place that instantly feels comfortable. Make sure to visit soon, whether for a drink, brunch, a plate of pot roast, or to attend one of the many events. We suspect it will maintain legendary status, and feed us for decades to come.
Visit Steuben’s Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. 523 E. 17th Ave., Denver, steubens.com
