Since opening in 2019, Wellness Sushi has made a name for itself as Denver’s premier (not to mention only) purveyor of 100% plant-based Japanese cuisine. Now chef-owner Steven Lee and his wife-partner, Phoebe, are expanding to Boulder, but their new venture, Wellness Counter, is what you might call a whole different animal.
For one thing, rather than a fast-casual operation, this Japanese restaurant (which opens May 16) will be a more upscale affair: table service, full bar, and all. And for another thing, it will not be vegan.
What to Eat at Wellness Counter
The sushi at the core of the menu showcases seafood sourced from Japan. From salmon, sea bream, and striped jack to bluefin tuna, Hokkaido scallop, and golden eye snapper, they’ll mostly be offered in the form of nigiri or temaki—no wacky fusion-style maki here. And it’s worth noting that some cuts will be dry-aged, a process that imparts “more chewy tenderness, sweetness, and umami flavor,” according to Steven.
“To go along with the sushi, we have developed a really good kitchen program of small plates and hot dishes,” added Phoebe, singling out duck empanadas, shrimp toast with egg-yolk cream, miso-glazed eggplant, and baked green mussels with mentaiko sauce as a few favorites from the appetizer section of the menu. Claypot rice promises to be another highlight, whether featuring seasonal mushrooms or shrimp: “We use freshwater prawns and prawn oil to really deepen the flavors” in the latter, she explained.
A robata grill will be put to good use as well. For starters, the Lees plan to offer three types of yakitori (skewers): chicken, Kurobuta pork—which Phoebe dubs the porcine equivalent of Wagyu beef—and tsukune (meatballs) made with both chicken and duck. That selection may expand in future, but either way, it’ll be supplemented by the likes of binchotan charcoal–kissed hamachi collar and scallops in sake butter. And finally, toast-based snacks will serve as a vehicle for house-baked shokupan (Japanese milk bread).
What to Drink
“Wellness is all about intention,” Phoebe insisted when discussing the beverage program, implying that a mindful approach to drinking as well as eating is central to the restaurant’s ethos. To that end, she’s shining a spotlight on Japanese tea culture and its essence of serenity, offering ceremonial matcha service while sourcing high-grade green teas from Kyoto.
“Gyokuro is the most premium” example, she explained. “You don’t have to drink a lot of it, just a small portion. It has a special method of brewing, and the flavor is really different from regular green tea—it has a lot of umami and sweet nuttiness.”
But alcohol can factor into a wholesome dining experience too. Combined with primarily Japanese spirits, “all the ingredients we use in our cocktails are made from scratch,” noted Phoebe, be it the lychee puree that graces the martini or the grapefruit cordial in the highball. An assortment of premium sakes goes without saying, while the wine list will coalesce around “Old World styles that emphasize balance and restraint,” she added, “alongside a small selection of Japanese-produced wines. These are relatively rare, made from hybrid grape varietals adapted to Japan’s climate.”
“Relatively” is an understatement: The only other place we’ve seen Japanese wine is at Ukiyo in Denver. But if you’re aware of others, please let us know.
What Else to Expect at Wellness Counter
“Welcoming and at the same time refined”: That’s how Phoebe described the 80-seat dining room designed by Lauren Goodman O’Neill of Scout Interiors. Enhancing naturally elegant earth tones of brick and clay, for instance, sconces and pendant lights sourced from MushLume “are made out of real mushroom, with a soft, organic form that adds warmth to the space.”
At the heart of it all is, as the name suggests, a 12-to-16-seat chef’s counter (that’s ADA compliant), where the Lees anticipate launching omakase service in the months to come. But in the meantime, a tranquil a la carte repast awaits Boulderites.
Visit Wellness Counter starting May 16, Monday to Thursday from 3 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from noon to 11 p.m., and Sunday noon to 10 p.m. 1117 Pearl St., Boulder, wellnesscounter.com
